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                  2008 International Goan Convention
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R&R Tourism and hearing the Goan Groan
The R&R beach "shack" sub-culture makes ecstasy an agony!

By Miguel Braganza


In his heydays, Goa's Pop sensation Remo wrote and sang a song that said 
"Politicians don't know to Rock-n-Roll". The politicians had, even then, 
learnt the finer points of the "Rest & Recreation" tourism, spawned by the 
US forces in South East Asia. Since the end of the 1960s, Goa's beaches have 
gradually shifted from being a 'Rest and Recuperation' destination for the 
native middle-class and the traditional 'salt water bath' or "Kharem udok" 
for the working class, to a modern, drug-inspired, western style R&R resort. 
In fact, the so-called "white trash" resort to almost anything, nudism 
included, on Goa's now infamous beaches. This has spawned the domestic 
voyeur tourism with the hordes of depraved men coming to see the nudes 
rather than the beaches.

One only needs to benchmark Pattaya, a beach resort in the suggestively 
named Bay of Bangkok in Thailand. According to the wikipedia "Pattaya was 
simply a small fishing village until it was discovered as a beach resort by 
Bangkok residents in the 1960s. Soon thereafter, servicemen from all over 
Southeast Asia, including the United States Air Force base at U-Tapao, began 
using the area for "rest and recuperation" (R&R), causing a huge boom in 
prostitution."

Calangute, Anjuna, Morjim, Benaulim, Colva, Sernabatim or Palolem all fell 
in the category of "small, sleepy fishing villages" till the peaceniks from 
USA's Vietnam war protestors descended on Anjuna as "hippies" in 1967. So 
sleepy was the place that the last bus from Anjuna to Mapusa was at 5 P.M. 
in the evening. It had no electricity and hence the "full moon parties" came 
into being with unplugged music. Calangute, the next stop "over the hill", 
had a last bus at 6 P.M. but no electricity till 1972. In this part of the 
geography, an early night is now history!

In December, 1971, the news that the US Seventh Fleet was approaching India 
was viewed with genuine concern. It would mess with India's plans to 
liberate East Pakistan and serve as the midwife of Bangladesh. The USA was 
exercising its democratic right to defend a dictator [Ya, Ya Khan of 
Pakistan, parlez-vous?] as per its long tradition in Haiti, Argentina, 
Mexico, Panama, Iraq or elsewhere in the world. When things changed, and USA 
saw "red" in Islam or sensed a threat to Zionism, it attacked its former 
friends in Afganistan and Iraq. The US Sixth Fleet was not seen as a threat. 
The sailors and airmen abroad learnt to do R & R in India. The Indian armed 
forces even did "Joint Exercises" with them!

Interest in cruises along the West Coast of India has increased. We have 
occasional "Port calls" by cruise liners. The biggest cruise ship, "Queen 
Mary-2" is scheduled to stop over at Goa in next summer. We have one 
pseudo-offshore casino ship operating in the inland river Mandovi. Another 
one is bidding its time and another three are going to sail in shortly, 
including two Turkish casino ships. We already have casinos in and around 
5-star hotels. What wikipedia wrote about Pattaya, "When the Americans left 
following the end of the Vietnam War, the city fell into a crisis. However, 
modern mass tourism, particularly single men looking for companionship, 
brought a new lease of life to Pattaya." is not going to happen to Goa. Mass 
tourism . charters, pedophiles and all. is already here!

In his hard-hitting article in a local daily entitled "Moral Externalities 
of Coastal Tourism" Nandkumar Kamat writes, "Today, this decadent lifestyle 
has created the infrastructure of Goa's tourism. It has become an attractive 
hangout for dysfunctional people from all over the world. Goa's beaches are 
infested with drug dealers from all over the world. The foreign tourists 
that fuel Goa's tourist industry are often low-income tourists and 
adventurous youth out for cheap thrills. Easy availability of drugs and 
Goa's reputation as a tourist paradise where liquor flows uninterruptedly 
has perpetuated its image as a permissive haven."

"There is no danger to Goa's morally, socially and legally subsidized 
tourism as long as the international community brings pressure on the Indian 
government to cleanse Goa's tourism sector. Perhaps, the British Parliament 
would be as sensitive to the drugs and crime scene in Goa as it has been to 
the condition of the last few surviving Indian tigers." says Nandkumar

Wrote Fr. Desmond de Sousa CSsR for SAR NEWS, "The Ecumenical Coalition on 
Third World Tourism (ECTWT), in 1982, had prophetically denounced mass and 
luxury tourism as an unmitigated disaster for third world countries. Even 
the Vatican rubbished their critique as unfounded. From a European, 
tourist-sending perspective, the way tourism was structured was good, 
provided certain negative fallouts like drugs and prostitution were 
contained." Containing drugs and prostitution, when they are the driving 
forces of this paradigm of tourism, is a non-starter. "The tourism industry 
in Angeles City (the Philippines) and Pattaya (Thailand) were the Rest and 
Recreation centres for the American navy and army during the Vietnam War 
(1965-75)." Goa is the future of this R&R.

The above report entitled "Seedy Underbelly of Goa's Tourism Exposed" reads 
thus, "The Third World perspective starts from a different premise. The 
tourism industry is a clone of capitalist society, where profits are more 
important than persons. From a Third World perspective, the very structuring 
of mass and luxury tourism industry reflects the structures of sin of 
capitalist society." I hope our Ecclesiastical authorities in Goa are 
reading this and are beginning to understand it. Perhaps, this Redemptorist 
priest will help them redeem themselves, for today is Good Friday!

There is a groundswell of opposition to the drug-casino-charter clutter 
tourism that is being unabashedly promoted in Goa by the state and federal 
governments. It is time to form a coalition of NGOs and individuals to fight 
this menace through People's Power. Can we resurrect Goa to life this Easter 
and give it back the vibrant colours at Shigmo?  (ENDS)

The Miguel Braganza weekly column at:

http://www.goanet.org/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=482

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The above article appeared in the March 21, 2008 edition of the Gomantak 
Times, Goa 

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