http://www.newindpress.com/sunday/sundayitems.asp?id=SET20080524081654&eTitle=Travel&rLink=0
The closest place to paradise Saturday May 24 2008 17:43 IST Chloe Strowger With so much recent talk about "the tragedy of Goa" the suggestion of venturing to the Konkan region for a relaxing vacation would make most people cringe. Indeed there can be no denying that even before the tragic death of Scarlett Keeling earlier this year, Goa had its fair share of negative press coverage pertaining to the debauched and decadent party scene that has come to dominate the tourist resorts of its Northern shores. Yet paradise has not been entirely lost — just head south, and do so after the package holidayers have left. For those wanting to break free from the maddening crowds of India during the incredulously hot months of April and May, Goa still stands apart as one of the best holiday destinations for tourists dreaming of lazy days on sun-drenched beaches. The most laid-back parts of Goa that can still hold some validity to the claim of having scenes borrowed from paradise (and thus no dope dens, wild midnight beach raves and topless frolickers) can be found beyond Panjim, deep in Canacona territory. The incandescent surf and palm-fringed beaches that stretch from Colva to Benaulim and are an irrefutable cure for any stresses burdening Goa's guests. One can spend many a happy hour under one of the dotted beach parasols that are within easy reach of many restaurants offering fresh fish and exotic mocktails. Once you have resigned yourself to expect the surprise beheld by many hoteliers and restaurant owners that you have chosen to visit Goa after their peak tourist season, which covers the months of November through to Late February; one can begin to delight in the luxuries that can only be had during the off-peak months before the monsoon rains. These include the availability of the best walk-in accommodation throughout Southern Goa coupled with favorable hotel rates, proficient and attentive service from servers who are simply happy to have customers, exclusively deserted beaches and hours of dependable ravenous sunshine. What more could you want from a beach holiday? Goa has plenty of cafes like that of Colomb's Boom Shankar in which one can observe the glorious setting of the sun accompanied by a cool glass of cashew feni. If you are fortunate enough, one can even slight a chance of seeing a playful school of dolphins chopping up the waves out at sea. Essentially Southern Goa is a beach-lovers destination whereby doing anything more than relaxing on the beach or paddling along the shore is considered to be a strenuous activity but if you can muster the energy to drag yourself away from the sun-drenched sands there are plenty of things to see and do inland. And with over 40 years of experience with large numbers of visitors, Goa has one of the most comprehensive private bus networks in India therefore travelling between beaches will cause you few headaches. Another popular and fun way to explore Goa is to hire a moped but be warned — insurance details are rarely discussed and helmets seldom readily provided. Top of the destination list has to be Panjim. Replacing the town of Old Goa as the capital in 1843, Panjim is a charming city with a surprising village feel. The Fontainhas district has especially managed to preserve its Portuguese colonial heritage with its tiled-mosaic pavements and colour-washed houses. Many of the best guesthouses and fine restaurants can be found amid its winding lanes. A definite sojourn during lunchtime should be the Hotel Venite, which offers simple but sophisticated Goan dishes that successfully fuse the best of Indian and Portuguese cuisine within a setting of rustic serenity. Another must-see is Patnem Beach that boasts a subtle crowd and is quintessentially Southern Goa at its best not only because visitors have the rare chance to get up close and personal with local Goans and those who have made Goa their home. With the customary spray of quaint bungalows that are shyly interspersed amongst the coconut trees, and convenience stores; there are also a timid plethora of eateries to suit all palates and budgets. None come so charming and seductive as The Tree Shanti in Colomb Beach. Like a grounded tree house; its owner Philip is the perfect host and has managed to create a nightly ambience that is akin to a neighbour holding a summer dining party for close friends. Some prospective tourists may still think of Goa as a troublesome and rebellious teenager intent on ruining itself and thus best avoided, but there are many a redeeming features within the south that warrant exploration if only to discover that Goa is still the closest place to paradise in India. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Travel tips There are direct flights to Goa from all the metros in India. There is no direct train from Chennai to Goa. One can go to Mangalore and then catch a local train from there. Accommodation: Hotel Lucky Star (www.hotelluckystargoa.com), The Goa Grand Intercontinental (www.intercontinental.com). Getting around: Trendiest option is to hire a moped. Be warned; it is cheaper to hire for periods longer than one day. Private buses operate a comprehensive and regular service between most beaches. Opt for the romantic alternative of strolling on foot between bays and rocky, coconut-fringed headlands. Food and drink: Hotel Venite, Panjim (Mediterranean flavor); Sagar Kinara, Colva Beach (traditional Indian cuisine); Boom Shankar, Colomb Beach (great location to watch the sunset). Attractions: At Galjibag Beach, one can catch a rare glimpse of the marine turtles in their protective nesting area. The Cotiago Wildlife Sanctuary is 12 km south-east of Palolem.
