"ANNTTICHO ADD'DDO" (Aunty's joint!) Most yesteryear Goans have come up the hard way. Initially, majority Goans were agriculturists. They cultivated paddy fields, millets, corns, sugarcane, etc. and supported their families. Wives helped their husbands and so did their children. We are proud of our ancestors profession.
Until almost the middle of the last century, women were confined to the kitchen and were mainly meant to produce children and look after them as well as the family: Remember, we followed the joint family system then the larger the family the better it was! Today, most couples work and live on double income. In the past, only the head of the family worked; he thus became the sole bread winner. Women did not go to work outside their homes but they did their bit by remaining home. They raised cows, buffaloes, pigs, chicken, goats, etc. and helped their husbands in supporting their families. They also cultivated orchards and produced onions, chilies and vegetables. The only profession that women were allowed to follow was xivonn-suth (tailoring and embroidery.) During the Portuguese regime, many Goans migrated to Bombay and took up employment. They married and raised their families there. Very few women were educated then. While women in Goa worked in the confines of their homes, Goan housewives in Bombay found a new job for themselves - that of an Ayah (Maid.) Practically every well-to-do household in Bombay employed Ayahs, but they preferred Goan Ayahs to others because they were sincere, trustworthy and hard working; they knew their job well. Goan Ayahs in Bombay worked mostly in Parsi households. They supported their families, brought up their children and educated them. In many cases, while a husband drove the masters car, his wife served as a maid and looked after their kids. Just like cooks and butlers, Goan Ayahs also produced many intellectuals - one of them is the late Cardinal Valerian Gracias, who once said: That my widow mother is a poor woman is a hard fact and I am not shy of it. That his mother was an Ayah did not bother him at all. On the contrary, he was proud of his poor and illiterate mother who despite being so backward helped her only son to become a great intellectual! Since the Bomboikars (Bombayites) inherited the British culture, words like Sir and Madam, Sahib and Mem-Sahib became very common, especially with cooks, butlers, drivers and ayahs, most of whom originated from Goa. They say: When in Rome do as the Romans do. Similarly, the above two words became so famous that everyone in Bombay picked them up and they became part and parcel of daily life. In Goa, till today, people in their Sixties and beyond tend to greet you in the Portuguese style: O Senhor/Senhora! (Hello Mister/Ms.) The present Goan generation neither follows the Portuguese nor Konkani greeting. They use words like uncle and aunty to greet people, regardless of their relationship. In all the above cases, the greeting is out of respect; so, there is no offense to anybody. Presently, most migrants in Goa use the word Patranv - derived from the Portuguese word Patrão, meaning boss, when referring to or talking to his/her employer. This word is also used out of respect for the employer, regardless of his/her status. If you ask them not to address you as a Patranv, they politely say: Hamko achcha nahim lagta hai patranv. (We dont feel comfortable boss!) In Karnataka Patrao is a surname. There is a famous caterer in Mangalore known as Patrao Caterers, who caters for weddings and all types of functions. By the Sixties, many Goan women ventured out in the Gulf where most of them got employed as house maids/governesses and a few as nurses and clerks. They remitted hard-earned money and supported their families in Goa and Bombay. Per the Bombay Prohibition Act, 1949, the Liquor Prohibition was first introduced in State of Bombay (later Maharashtra) in 1950. However this policy was changed in 1973 and the restrictions on consumption, use, etc. were lifted. In order to combat effectively the illicit liquor trade in the State, cheaper liquor known as Country Liquor, locally known among drinkers as movsumbicho soro or orange juice liquor, was made available for sale. Subsequently the Government enacted the Maharashtra Country Liquor Rules, 1973, under which distilleries holding license for distillation of spirit and persons holding license for possession and use of rectified spirit were permitted to manufacture country liquor. Whenever a restriction was imposed it never succeeded; it only made matters worse. Until the early 1970s, Bombay was a dry area and we all know what happened then. People began to distill liquor illegally and they used anything and everything they could lay their hands on, including dead car batteries, in order to make the country liquor: The result? Several people died every now and then, including Goans, not due to overdrinking, but due to adulterated liquor! No doubt, many people minted money distilling and selling liquor illegally but at the same time they transferred many of their customers to the next world on an exit visa only! The illegal liquor distillation trade in Bombay was controlled by male Goans. Some of these went on to become the leaders in the trade. They were commonly known as Dada. The adddde (joints) were run by women. Main places like Dhobitalao, which was and is still considered as the second home of Goans in Bombay, had a "Dada" (Leader,) who was in charge of the area, and who controlled the outlets selling illegal liquor. He also took care of the "hafta" (bribe) paid to the police and any other problems, including fights that took place in his area of responsibility. Unlike local Goans who coolly sit at home and enjoy a good drink, the drinkers in Bombay had to be quick in drinking the stuff as if snapping something and running away. "Ghorant bhattiek kaddlolo kontry vo navsakricho soro" (the home made country liquor made out of loaf-sugar, fruits, etc.) was sold at an anntticho addddo (auntys joint,) which is why it was commonly known as "anntticho soro" (auntys liquor) because many women were involved in distilling and selling the liquor. Auntys joints were located in Bombay gullies. The moment one entered their quarters, one experienced a strange foul smell, which emanated from the soreachi bhatti (distillery,) which is why they always burnt agarbathis (incense sticks) to do away with the foul smell. Most aunties wore the Goan vistid (dress,) which had deep side pockets on either side. Big bills were placed in one pocket and smaller bills and coins in the other pocket. They also made use of the Godrej safe kurpet (brasier) to place money in between their breasts. The distilled liquor was placed in bottles and hidden everywhere in the house in the cupboards, in the lower compartment of a showcase, under a pile of clothes, in between a gozddi/kulchanv (mattress), in the sump, in the toilet, etc. Each aunty had her own spies who would keep a watch on her enemies and even alert her of the possible police raids. They were rewarded with drinks. In Bombay, as soon as people finished their daily work, they, especially mill workers, proceeded to go home. On their way home, they would enter anntticho addddo and greet her thus: Oh anntti! Koxi asai ghe? Amkam ek pavxer ghal! (Hello aunty! How are you? Pour me a quarter pint!) She would pour the liquor in a glass and say to him: "Vegim ghontt mar ani futt hangasorlo." (Gulp it down quickly and disappear from here.) Her rude behavior reminds me of an old colloquial saying: "Khanvchem-jevchem khuim ghovachem ani ghevchem minddachem,) which roughly translated means that a wife though supported by her husband is controlled by her lover. The customer gulped down the stuff as if drinking water but the faces he made appeared as though he was taking Epsom Salt or consuming poison! Freshly made pickle was kept in a plate on a stool by the exit door. He would pick a little pickle with a pinch, place it in his mouth and walk away while still making sour faces! The aunties who ran the liquor business were very strong and courageous, as they had to deal with different types of customers - good, bad and rough ones. If anyone tried to act smart, the aunty would say: "Ar're xannponnam bond kor ani ugich ghora voch, nam zalear kaddun ek kanpod'dear ditelim!" (Hey, stop your smartness and go away quietly otherwise I will give one (slap) on your eardrums!) Most of the guys listened to her and went away. If anyone didn't, she would slap him and then the bodyguard would show him the door in his own way. There were two main reasons why Goan women in Bombay took up the country liquor distillation trade and its sale: (1) Many husbands became victims of the home made country liquor. Distilling the liquor at home meant they could serve their husbands their daily quota. In fact, they (aunties) distilled two types of liquor one for home consumption and the other for public consumption in which they even used dead batteries! Thus, they (aunties) became the main bread winners of the family. (2) The police could not behave with women in the same manner as they behaved with men. Even when they wanted to raid a womans place, they had to be extra cautious because a woman could accuse them of almost anything including fondling, molestation, which they did many a times and put the cops in trouble. It was quite easy: The woman would tear the blouse in front, expose her breasts and put the blame on the police. She produced several eye witnesses and backed her case. There were hardly any women police in those days. Women were inducted in the police force in greater Mumbai in the year 1939, and subsequently in the district of Sholapur, Kolhapur, and Pune in 1950. It was only after the Independence that women were appointed in the police force on a regular basis in different states, after the partition of India in 1947. Moreover, females enjoyed privileges like carrying liquor from one destination to the other in taxis by tying the liquor filled balloon to the stomach. Anyone looking at the woman assumed she was pregnant. A male could not do that easily though some did it under the guise of a burka-clad Muslim woman, but it was dangerous, as it was not accepted by the public because just like Hindus, Muslims were not drinkers, at least in public. How can we blame those who portrayed our Bomboikarn aunty in movies? Actually, it was only one movie, an Amitab Bachchan starrer Khuddar in which Mary (Praveen Bhabi) was shown carrying liquor tied to her belly. Off the subject, when I was in Bahrain, The Young Goans Sports Club organized all the major dances like Come September Ball, Christmas Dance, New Year Dance, Carnival Dance, Easter Dance, May Queen Ball, etc. These dances sometimes lasted through 4:00 am and beyond. In those days, police stopped cars after midnight and conducted on-the-spot balloon test to determine liquor consumption level. Those found under the influence of liquor were fined BD.300.00 plus imprisonment. Therefore, husbands who were high on drinks did not drive on their way back home but their wives did. Though women, too, would have consumed a couple of beers or so, the policemen almost never insisted on a balloon test on women. So, there you are the woman always stands at an advantage over man! As for portraying drunkard Catholic Goans in movies, arent many of our males living on their wives salaries? When husbands turn drunkards, there being no other alternative, many wives take up employment abroad, mostly in the Gulf, and support their drunkard husbands in Goa, who do nothing te bailechea khustar jietat (they live at the cost of their wives!) The wives of Goans in Bombay fed their husbands and provided liquor to them in their homes. Which wife will do that today? On the contrary, todays woman will file for divorce the next day! Those who dealt with liquor did not have a peaceful life. Police would raid them every now and then. There were three types of raids (a) genuine raids conducted by the government authorities or police; (b) semi-genuine raids conducted by the police for not paying the "hafta", and (c) other raids which were directed by competitors out of vengeance. The result: Both the distiller and the customer would end up in jail. The people who were most affected due to liquor restriction in Bombay were Goans. Here I remember some lines of a song by the late Kid Boxer which goes thus: Marinakai mar bhaleanim Noxib amchem khal'lam zorleanim Soro bond kela mhunnon Tondd kaem kelam cholea-cholianim Bombaim tum amkam mevtai golieanim (Dont poke us with spears For our luck is eaten by cockroaches The liquor prohibition Has saddened the youth of both genders You meet us in the gullies of Bombay.) However, the following song by the late Minguel Rod, the genius of the Konkani Stage, who composed classic songs based on his personal experiences, and who himself was a victim of country liquor (passed away at the age of 32,) will always remain one of the jewels for generations to come. Here are the lyrics of his famous song "PETROL CHOLTA," which talks about the alcohol restriction in Bombay. Rough English translation of the lyrics follows: "PETROL CHOLTA" I Goenkarancher Saiba, tum ragar zaloi khoro Tuvem khast amkam laili gha, amcho sukon zala paro Goeam aslelea lokak tum ekdom asai boro Dekun tankam tum ditai pondra rupia kovso soro. (You got angry with us Goans And you punished us until we lost our weight You are in very good terms with the locals in Goa Hence, you give them a pot-full of liquor for only Rs.15.) Chorus Bomboi asleleanche tuvem motte bhognnar kele Ani Goeam aslele edov porian xekovn nidonk gele Aikon Goenchi khobor, amchea pottan dont mele Inga chorieam irlem ami martale, tuvem tenkaim dhorun vele. (You made Bombay Goans suffer a lot The locals in Goa by now had their share and went to bed The maw worms died in our stomach on learning the Goan news We used to drink here stealthily but you raided and took them away.) II Pondra rupian passun Saiba, quarter kor amkam favo Tum Goeam asleleancho fuim khuimcheanui bizoitai tavo Soro athin dortoch ami, kitkim magnnim tuka favo Ami khuimche te tum zannaim, to amkam voita tinga zavo. (Please make a quarter available to us at even at Rs.15 You somehow seem to quench the thirst of local Goans The moment we hold liquor in hand, we pray infinitely You know where we come from - we need you everywhere.) Chorus To astoch sangatak ami kaibore dolta Ani kai borem bailanchem aikon ghora ievun maimkui pett ghalta Inglez Saiba naka, tem rokddench gunvddu halta Amchem machine ekdom ghott Saiba, kontri petrol cholta. (When he is in our company, we swing like anything Upon returning home, we listen to our wives and beat our mothers We dont want English liquor - it immediately makes us feel dizzy Our machine is very strong, even the country petrol is okay.) III Anik ek voros tum osoch, Mumboikarancher chavot Ani urpache ami nam gha Saiba, atanch geleanv bavot Tem vokot nastannam Saiba, Konknnem kitkoi teomp ravot Punn Goenkar muineank ponsam voir jerul Mahalaximi pivot! (If you keep up your angry mood with Bomboikars for another year We wont survive; we have already reduced in size The Hindus can survive without that medicine for long But Goans will surely end up in great numbers at Mahalaximi!) Chorus Soglleanche pavttin magtam, Saiba aikon mojem dhor Orixtt ruk umtton poddtat tujem ek utor mhunnot tor Zainam Saiba sonsunk, bhitor zovieank ieta zor Konnem bond kelam tem der Saiba, tum vegin ugttem kor. (Lord, I plead with you on behalf of everyone Even huge trees get uprooted at the mention of your word We cant tolerate it, our intestines are burning inside Whoever has closed the door; Lord, please open it for us soon!) I salute the Goan women who made a living in Bombay by distilling liquor and thus raised and educated their children. In many cases, they were the sole bread winners. Many a times we tend to feel insulted when someone points out to an aunty and we take it to heart. We cannot deny the fact that the Goan aunty distilled and sold liquor in Bombay. It is not a matter of shame because actually she worked within the confines of her home and supported her family. What can we expect others to think of us if our men laze around with a bottle while women work hard to take the family places? As a matter of fact, the Bombay sorekarn anntti (liquor aunty) was respected by most so much so that she earned the sobriquet out of respect but very few seem to know these facts. The word aunty becomes an offence only to those who think they belong to the elite society and who till today wish to be addressed as a bhattkar/bhattkarn or Sahib/MemSahib! Many of the aunties who lived on the liquor business have passed away but there are still a few left who enjoy their retired life and the fruit of their retirement educated children! How can we forget anntticho addddo and anntticho soro, and, more importantly, the aunty who carved a niche for herself in the hearts of drinkers, and, who dominated the country liquor business in Bombay for around half a century? Long live the Goan aunty! Moi-mogan, Domnic Fernandes Anjuna, Goa Mob: 9420979201
