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Get fresh with this museum
A one-man mission, Goa Chitra Museum houses live specimen too

Mayabhushan, Panaji


Surely, if you are holidaying in Goa, a museum visit cannot feature on your ‘to do’ list. But Orhan Pamuk’s did have it.

There must be something about the Goa Chitra Museum, a unique ethnographic museum located in the coastal village of Benaulim, about 40 km from the State capital, if the Nobel prize-winning author — who is on a prolonged sojourn in Goa with his Booker-winning friend Kiran Desai — decided to drop by for a visit last month.

Rated as the topmost contemporary museum by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), the museum contains over 4,000 artefacts indigenous to Goa. These are part of curator Victor Hugo Gomes’ collection, collected singlehandedly over the last two decades.

Some of the most incredulous materials here include an ancient kerosene-fired refrigerator, an automatic wooden seed drill traditionally used by farmers in Goa centuries ago and even several species of freshwater fish, now nearly extinct.

“These 13 species are some of the 60 species of fish once abundant in Goan freshwater lakes. Most have since vanished since the (State) Government introduced Tilapia, a carnivorous family of freshwater fish,” Gomes told The Pioneer. “This is not just a collection of items, but an attempt to document the life as lived by our ancestors,” he explained.

A testament to the curator’s words is the ‘organic farm’ where crops are grown using traditional techniques. In addition, each of the implements has been named and what it has been used for, documented in detail. The museum also houses ploughs once used for 17 different varieties of soil found in the State and visually documents the 17 different stages of operations, from preparing the soil to harvesting of rice.

The museum has been built using traditional materials like wood, stone, doors, windows, pillars and railing, which have been salvaged from more than 300 traditional houses that were being demolished. The collection — spread over 1.17 lakh sq m — did not come easy.

“Behind each item, I have a personal story of how I collected it. I have spent days living amidst Goa’s tribals, speaking to village elders, capturing and documenting the ethnicity and rituals associated with every item,” the curator explained.

Incidentally, Gomes’ tryst with museology has its roots in Lucknow, where he spent time as a painter.

“While there, I got a chance to accompany a researcher from MS University, who was researching on lifestyles and arts of tribals in North India. My interaction with tribals opened my eyes to the hard work and skill that went into creating their implements and their understanding of materials,” Gomes said.

Gomes, an alumnus of the Maharaja Sayajirao University in Baroda, has in the past set up the Museum of Christian Art at the Patriarchal Seminary of Rachol (currently housed at Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa).

While the Goa Chitra Museum has triggered considerable interest amongst the connoisseurs of art, the State Government has been predictably apathetic. “I have repeatedly requested the Director of Art and Culture to visit the museum, but he has not yet paid us a visit,” Gomes stated.

“I want this place to not be one where people come, look and go back. I hope it becomes an institution, where scholars come to write books, and researchers to study. I want students to come here to learn and children to admire the works of their forefathers,” he added.

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First published in The Pioneer, New Delhi, April 5, 2010


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