September 26, 2010, 6:00 am In Mumbai, Finding the Flavors of Goa By DAN PACKEL <http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/author/dan-packel/> Goa Portuguesa The caranguejos recheados — stuffed crab — at Goa Portuguesa in Mumbai. Mumbai Posts <http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/category/mumbai/> | City Guide<http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/asia/india/mumbai/overview.html>
Since its “discovery” by Western travelers in the late 1960s, Goa, a region 12 hours south of Mumbai by train, has developed a reputation for carefree living, shading into hedonism. The region’s unique cuisine, though, has added to its charms. With a large Christian population unrestrained by dietary taboos, Goan cooking features plenty of meat (pork and beef included) and fish, combined with a generous use of spice. Plenty of Goans have felt the pull of the metropolis to the north and have moved to Mumbai for employment. For Mumbai, this means that the city has become an excellent place to sample Goan food. Start at *New Martin Hotel*(21, Glamour House, Strand Cinema Road, Opposite Strand Cinema, Colaba; 91-22-2202-9606). A steady lunchtime crowd reliably occupies the five cozy booths, so you may have to share space. Try the pork vindaloo (70 rupees; about $1.50), with chunks of tender meat simmered in a sauce rich with chillies and vinegar. Be sure to order a side of rice to sop up the sauce. *Snowflake*(Rebeiro Building, First Dhobi Talao Lane, Dhobi Talao; 91-22-2201-4252), is similarly low key. Grab a seat at a marble-topped table and order a plate of the roast tongue (58 rupees). The thinly sliced beef tongue is served with sautéed onions and strips of potato in a thicker, piquant sauce that also reveals a touch of vinegar. Finally, head north to *Goa Portuguesa *(‘Mili’ Building, Opposite Mahim HPO, Kataria Road, Mahim; 91-22-2444-0202), for a more upscale dining experience. While a troubadour moves from table to table playing pop favorites on guitar (Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights), start with the caranguejos recheados (499 rupees), in which crab meat is cooked with onion and spice, then stuffed back into the shell, and topped with grated cheese. You might not find this dish in the beach shacks of Goa (it’s a house recipe designed to take the work out of eating crab). But that doesn’t make it any less satisfying. http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/26/in-mumbai-finding-the-flavors-of-goa/ -- DEV BOREM KORUM Gabe Menezes.
