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The new 'smell' of success - Goan feni in odourless avtar

VIBHA VERMA
vi...@herald-goa.com

Panjim: Important Feni makers across Goa are receiving feni these days, instead of making and sending them out. This “caju” has got less colour and err what the hick no smell. Feni without smell!!!!

While feni-tics (feni fanatics) might fume at the odour-less feni, the Indian Council of Agricultural Research has managed a breakthrough to make feni more accessible to others and make them converts.

The scientists at Old Goa-based Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) have eliminated the strong odour, which will make it more acceptable amongst national and international buyers.

It is expected the odourless Feni can fetch more commercial value, within and in the international markets. The scientists have already started experimenting among the feni-makers divided in three batches to check the response, which has been tremendous.

Nearly 2000 feni-makers are currently involved in making feni in a highly traditional way.

ICAR Director Dr Narendra Pratap Singh told Herald that researchers have achieved this milestone without tampering with the taste of this drink.

"Our aim is to make the smell acceptable without making it lose its flavour,” Singh said announcing the breakthrough in the research.

ICAR’s Senior Scientific Investigators S B Barbuddhe and A R Desai were tasked to find a scientific solution for the problem.

The central government institute’s research on this Goan brew began when the Goa Feni Association approached them in the last season with the request to study the entire process of feni-making.

During their studies, the scientists found that the yield of feni varies with the type of technique employed for distillation and depends on the natural flora, which spirals its fermentation.

Barbuddhe said there is no information available on the type of microflora involved in fermentation of cashew apple juice.

ICAR has been studying the micro-flora and the type of techniques involved in feni making. The initial studies have concluded that the method of juice extraction from the cashew apple is unhygienic and recommended their standardization.

Barbuddhe said that the use of tin or iron containers for storing the juice during the fermentation process leaves blackening of the juice which may affect the flavor of the end product.

ICAR findings also revealed that the yeast population in naturally fermented juice is diverse and hence it recommends standardizing the fermentation and distillation process for large scale adoption.

“The mechanized way of extracting juice will help in hygienic handling of the pre-fermented juice,” the scientist added.

The experts have estimated that Rs 700 crores could be made through the sale of Feni only in India.

Feni has always been accepted socially in the state as a party drink for every class of people. Besides this, it has also been honored for the medicinal values embedded in it.

After a long drawn struggle, the Goan spirit has already received GI (Geographical Indication), which makes it patented product. This spirit is also derived from Coconut besides Cashew in the State.


RESPONSE:

>The scientists at Old Goa-based Indian Council of Agricultural
> Research (ICAR) have eliminated the strong odour, which will make it
> more acceptable amongst national and international buyers.

COMMENTS: The strong odor is the unique identity of Goan cashew feni.

When we come across a cashew feni drinker, we usually say in Konkani:
“Tannem fulam mavleant” (He wore flowers.) Here flowers mean fragrance of the feni, which is difficult to hide; it even settles on clothes!

If the person is too intoxicated with feni, we casually ask him: “Kitem re Pedru, aiz borinch fulam mavleant mure!” (Peter, you wore lots of flowers today!)

If they do away with the strong odor of the feni, we won’t be able to use the above-mentioned Goan expressions!


>“The mechanized way of extracting juice will help in hygienic handling
> of the pre-fermented juice,” the scientist added.

Comments: Agreed. But how will they extract nira?

When summer sets in, we love to drink our urr’rak. Will they manufacture it or do away with it?

Moi-mogan,

Domnic Fernandes
Anjuna, Goa
Mob: 9420979201



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