Living in Dar es Salaam, Tanganyika, across the channel from Zanzibar (which
was known colloquially at "Unguja"), we listened in dread and trepidation the
events in Zanzibar, when the island was racked with the revolution a few days
(perhaps weeks) after the Island gained independence in December 1963.
We Dar folks had close ties with the island with many young men marrying the
fair lasses that the island produced. We exchanged sports visits between the
Goan Institutes in Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, on alternate years. I went on
the last sports visit in 1963 when the Zanzibar Goan Institute hosted the Dar
es Salaam Goan Institute. Zanzibar was a
magical place with the local Goans so warm and hospitable. Stonetown, the
heart of downtown Zanzibar was a scene straight from the Arabian nights, with
its narrow winding
lanes and Arab houses with wooden balconies and humongous carved and brass
studded doors and interior courtyards, and enclosed terraces all built to
accomodate Muslim families whose women lived under the strictures of Islam.
When a car vended its way through these lanes, one had to hang on to the window
of the adjoining homes to get out of the way !
It was sad to hear with horror the lives lost lost in the revolution,
especially Goan lives, since it was such a small community. The population of
Zanzibar was and still is probably 95 % Muslim. But Goans were highly
respected and attained high positions in the Government. There was at least
one Goan hotel in the old town called the Lusitania Hotel.
I visited the building where the Hotel (by then defunct) was situated about 18
years ago and met the owner who proudly showed me his grove of Moira bananas
growing in the interior couryard. There are still an handful of Goans living
in Zanzibar, some of whom told me that Zanzibar was home and they wanted to
live the rest of their lives there. Such was the hold of this magical island,
endowed with such natural beauty, clear blue green seas and sandy beaches,
where the sweet scent of Cloves wafts through the air, especially in the
evenings. Zanzibar was known and is probably still known as the island of
Cloves.
At the time of the revolution I worked for the American Embassy in Dar es
Salaam, and
one of my duties was to arrange accomodation and onward transportation to the
USA for American evacuees from the island. Each American and his/her dependant
was also given a cash allowance for necessities. The Americans with the help of
the British who had their warships in the vicinity, took good care of their
citizens. Goans and other Indians were left to fend for themselves. This left
a deep impression on me, and spurred me to migrate to the USA
,
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