It is a local landmark. It draws huge crowds and causes traffic logjam and all
of the 2000 loaves baked here every single day are sold outJoyce Dias / The
Goan 20 April 2013
There is no name and no signboard. But the warm, sweet smell of freshly baked
bread is enticing enough to lead one to the doorstep of the bakery that is
famous for its pão, polleo and katrepão.Established by Joaquim Andrade over a
century ago, the quaint bakery stands at the corner of the Civil Court in
Margão. Part of Andrade’s former residence, the bakery and its neighbourhood
have changed little in the last 100 years; except for the fact that today yeast
is used in place of toddy as a raising agent and the neighbouring Portuguese
prison was converted into the present Civil Court. A huge earthen wood-fired
oven takes centre-stage; the firewood lending the baked breads its unique
flavour. “The bakery has been handed down since three generations. I am happy
to be carrying on my grandfather’s legacy,” says Caetano, who manages and runs
the bakery today. Caetano’s parents Custodio and Hortença ran the bakery before
him. “Hortença was a kind and wonderful person. When people had no money to buy
bread, she gave it away for free,” says Alvito Fernandes, who has lived next
door to the bakery since 1971.“Shortage of labour is the biggest problem
because of which many bakeries have been forced to shut shop,” says Caetano.
“In my mother’s day, we had a man from Majorda called Tetereolino Fernandes
who worked at the bakery for 45 years,” he adds.Come 8.30 pm and the hordes
arrive. From as near as Comba and as far as Colva, people and poders throng
here to buy the hot, sweet-smelling bread. “Everyone in my family, especially
my elderly father loves the pão from here. The workers are always cheerful,”
says Nitin Nagvekar, a civil engineer from Fatorda. “This bread is for my
supper, I am working the night shift,” says a policeman. Within two hours, all
of the 2000 bread are sold out. The empty bread baskets are turned over and the
lights are switched off as the workers call it a day.
