It looks like you're preloading the infowindow contents before creating 
the map. Your infowindows contain huge images which are then scaled 
down. E.g.

   http://www.sundialsociety.org.uk/images/Kent/S3009.jpg

is 685kb. The map doesn't get loaded until the "onload" event triggers, 
which occurs after all those 15 large images have been fetched.

You end up displaying the image at 300x225 pixels, so you could save a 
lot of time by creating images of that size rather than 1648x2331. On a 
slow connection that could take quite a while.

Skipping the preloading of the infowindow contents would also allow the 
map to display earlier in the proceedings. The downside would be that 
there would be the normal slight delay the first time each infowindow is 
opened as the image gets fetched, rather than the current instantaneous 
photo display.

The underlay trick should work as long as your map div with underlay 
appears before you start preloading the infowindow contents, which 
appears to be the way you've got it configured. I don't know why that 
wouldn't work unless you repositioned your map div at the same tile that 
you added the underlay image.

-- 
Mike Williams
http://econym.org.uk/gmap



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