> thanks for any suggestions.

I guess not, huh?

in case anybody's looking for something similar, here are two
solutions I came up with:

1. Put the 188 countries in an array, geocode the center of the map
and check if the geocoded country name matches anything in the array.
This seems a little wasteful because you end up calling the geocoder
every time you move the map:
http://www.xelawho.com/map/ip.php

2. Get the country "bounds box" (their minimum and maximum lat and
lng) from here: http://www.nearby.org.uk/coords/countries.csv, narrow
the list down to the countries that use mapmaker tiles and if both the
lat and lng of the map center are within that "box", change to
mapmaker tiles. If either of the lat or lng are outside of the box,
load the normal tiles:
http://www.xelawho.com/map/ip2.php

Neither seems perfect, but both work ok... if anybody has a (3), I'm
all ears.

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