I found one workaround involving writing native JavaScript that bypasses 
the GoogleMaps GWT API:

    package com.test.client;
    
    import com.google.gwt.ajaxloader.client.AjaxLoader;
    import com.google.gwt.ajaxloader.client.AjaxLoader.AjaxLoaderOptions;
    import com.google.gwt.core.client.EntryPoint;
    import com.google.gwt.dom.client.Document;
    import com.google.maps.gwt.client.GoogleMap;
    import com.google.maps.gwt.client.LatLng;
    import com.google.maps.gwt.client.MapOptions;
    import com.google.maps.gwt.client.MapTypeId;
    
    public class GwtTest implements EntryPoint {
    
    @Override
    public void onModuleLoad() {
    AjaxLoaderOptions options = AjaxLoaderOptions.newInstance();
    options.setOtherParms("sensor=false");
    Runnable callback = new Runnable() {
    public void run() {
    createMap();
    }
    };
    AjaxLoader.loadApi("maps", "3", callback, options);
    }
    
    public void createMap() {
    
    MapOptions mapOpts = MapOptions.create();
    mapOpts.setZoom(4);
    mapOpts.setCenter(LatLng.create(37.09024, -95.712891));
    mapOpts.setMapTypeId(MapTypeId.TERRAIN);
    mapOpts.setStreetViewControl(false);
    
    GoogleMap map = GoogleMap.create(Document.get().getElementById(
"map_canvas"), mapOpts);
    
    styleMap(map);
    }
    
    
    public native void styleMap(GoogleMap map) /*-{
    map.set('styles', [
     {
       "featureType": "road",
       "stylers": [
         { "visibility": "off" }
       ]
     },{
       "featureType": "poi",
       "stylers": [
         { "visibility": "off" }
       ]
     },{
       "stylers": [
         { "invert_lightness": true }
       ]
     }
    ]);
    }-*/;
    }


I'd still be curious to find out if there's a pure Java workaround, but if 
anybody else has this problem, this native approach works. And it has the 
added bonus that it works directly with JSON you can export from the GoogleMaps 
Styling Wizard 
<http://gmaps-samples-v3.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/styledmaps/wizard/index.html>
.

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