> , any "ls" could take ages.

Check if you large directories either with many files or simply large.
Verify if you have NFS exported GPFS.
Verify that your cache settings on the clients are large enough ( maxStatCache ,
maxFilesToCache , sharedMemLimit )
Verify that you have dedicated metadata luns ( metadataOnly )

Reference:
https://www.ibm.com/developerworks/community/wikis/home?lang=en#!/wiki/General%20Parallel%20File%20System%20%28GPFS%29/page/Tuning%20Parameters

Note:
If possible monitor your metadata luns on the storage directly.

hth
Hajo



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