Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B-3, an 
essential nutrient. A B-3 deficiency can lead to disorders of the skin, 
kidneys, and brain. Taking niacinamide can help prevent B-3 deficiency.
niacinamide

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When used topically every day, niacinamide may have a positive impact on 
your overall skin health. The ingredient can help reduce inflammation and 
hyperpigmentation, smooth your overall skin texture, and brighten your skin.

In addition, niacinamide helps prevent premature signs of skin aging, 
including boosting collagen production to smooth wrinkles and reduce 
discolorations, says Nazarian. She recommends the ingredient for people 
with dry, sensitive, aging, or acne-prone skin.

When choosing a niacinamide product, Nazarian and Chen both suggest using a 
product that contains a concentration of no more than 5 percent niacinamide 
to minimize the risk of irritation. For most people, this amount should be 
tolerable; however, certain niacinamide serums contain as much as double 
that, so always read the label.

Nazarian advises that other great couplings for niacinamide are hyaluronic 
acid (both ingredients relieve dryness) and salicylic acid. Salicylic acid 
treats acne and keeps pores clear, while niacinamide may regulate oil 
production in skin and reduce inflammation.

Another study investigated the anti-aging effects of topical kinetin 0.03% 
in combination with niacinamide 4% versus niacinamide 4% alone in Asians. 
Amasino et al26 found that the combination of kinetin and niacinamide and 
niacinamide alone effectively improved many of the facial aging signs in 
Asians. This combination of ingredients reduced the number of 
hyperpigmented spots and red blotchiness as well as increased SC hydration 
status with more persistence than the formula containing niacinamide alone. 
The authors believe that this indicates a decisive role for kinetin in the 
formulation and that kinetin plus niacinamide may be used as an adjunctive 
therapy for anti-aging purposes of the skin.27

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is the precursor of important 
cofactors niacinamide adenosine dinucleotide (NAD) and its phosphate 
derivative, niacinamide adenosine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP). These 
cofactors and their reduced forms (NADH and NADPH) serve as 
reduction-oxidation (redox) coenzymes in more than 40 cellular biochemical 
reactions. Thus, niacinamide has the potential to exert multiple effects on 
skin and is a promising anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredient.

Feldmann et al48 highlighted the possibilities for the topical application 
of niacinamide because they were able to prove sufficient percutaneous 
penetration into human skin.48,49 In addition, several other studies have 
used increased levels of NAD in skin cells after the topical application of 
niacinamide as evidence of percutaneous penetration.50

Studies have shown that niacinamide has the potential to act as an 
antioxidant, can improve epidermal barrier function, decrease skin 
hyperpigmentation, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, decrease 
redness/blotchiness, decrease skin yellowness (sallowness), and improve 
skin elasticity.51,52 The mechanisms by which niacinamide provides this 
array of skin benefits is not completely understood, but the role of 
niacinamide as a precursor to the NADP family of coenzymes may play a 
significant role in all of these improvements.50

*Fine lines and wrinkles.* Multiple mechanisms may be involved in the 
ability of niacinamide to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 
The first to consider is that niacinamide may have the ability to increase 
dermal collagen and protein production. The development of wrinkles is a 
result of the decrease in epidermal cell layers and dermal components from 
a reduction in protein and collagen synthesis. Reduced protein synthesis is 
reflected in the levels of keratin, fillagrin, and involucrin in the skin. 
Keratin deficiency has an effect on the epidermal cell structure and its 
water-binding capacity. Fillagrin is an antecedent of natural moisturizing 
factor (NMF) and hence affects skin hydration. Involucrin is seen as 
significant for the cell envelope and structure of the SC. In summary, the 
effects of reduced collagen and protein synthesis are poor skin structure 
and reduced skin elasticity as well as a decrease in epidermal barrier 
function with a reduction in SC hydration. In studies on cell cultures, 
Oblong et al58 found that in aging cells it was possible to prove that 
niacinamide, as a precursor of NAD/NADP, stimulated collagen synthesis and 
the epidermal proteins keratin, fillagrin, and involucrin.51,58 In 
addition, another study was able to show niacinamide's ability to increase 
dermal matrix collagen production.66

The second mechanism that may be relevant to decreasing the appearance of 
wrinkles is the ability of niacinamide to reduce excess dermal 
glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). This is a controversial theory because both the 
elevation and depletion of dermal GAGs are associated with photodamaged or 
wrinkled skin.52,69 What is known is that the presence of GAGs is required 
for normal structure and function of the dermal matrix and increasing the 
levels of GAGs can increase the moisture content of skin. Testing has 
indicated that niacinamide reduces excess production of GAGs in old human 
dermal fibroblasts, thus supporting the potential involvement of this 
mechanism in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.51,70 Given 
the above analysis and scientific data, it seems more likely that an 
increase in dermal proteins (including collagen) may play a bigger role in 
reducing fine lines and wrinkles than decreasing the level of GAGs.

*Hyperpigmentation.* Topical niacinamide may be effective in decreasing 
epidermal hyperpigmentation and reducing pigmented spots as we age.71 
Hakozaki et al71 showed that the reduction of cutaneous pigmentation, 
surprisingly, was not due to the direct influence of niacinamide on melanin 
synthesis by melanocytes. Instead, they showed that niacinamide reduced 
melanosome transfer from melanocytes to surrounding keratinocytes in a 
co-culture system, although the specific mechanism remains unknown.71 This 
was supported by a study using 5% niacinamide moisturizer, which provided 
35 to 68 percent inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to 
keratinocytes.71

Tanno et al56 showed a reduction in pigmentation as a result of 
niacinamide. Eighteen Japanese women with hyperpigmentation were treated on 
one side of the face with 5% niacinamide and on the other side with vehicle 
only. The pigmentation change was evaluated qualitatively and 
quantitatively using high-resolution digital images and subjective 
judgments. In both forms of evaluation, it was found that after eight weeks 
of treatment there was significant lightening of hyperpigmentation on the 
side treated with niacinamide when compared with the effect of the vehicle 
(p

In a separate study also reported by Tanno et al performed with 120 
Japanese women, comparisons were made among a sun protection factor (SPF) 
15 cream with and without 2% niacinamide and the relevant vehicle. As a 
result of niacinamide treatment, there was a lightening of the skin after 
four and six weeks, which was noted to be markedly better than the formula 
without niacinamide.56

It is theoreticized that niacinamide may improve the texture of skin by 
speeding up epidermal turnover hence functioning as a mild exfoliant.72 
Using a multiple angle reflectance spectrophotometer in an in-vivo test of 
the back of the hand, Matts and Solenick73 established a beneficial effect 
for the topical application of niacinamide in smoothing the skin surface 
structure. This study demonstrates that the long-term application of 2.5% 
niacinamide can correct the skin surface damage that results from aging. 
These results were statistically significant compared with the influence of 
the vehicle alone (p

One of the best randomized, double-blind, split-face, placebo-controlled, 
clinical trials published on the anti-aging effects of topical niacinamide 
was done by Bissett et al.51 In this study, 50 white females with clinical 
signs of photodamage applied 5% niacinamide to half of the face and its 
vehicle control to the other half twice daily for 12 weeks. Analyses of the 
data revealed a variety of effects related to improvements in skin 
appearance for topical niacinamide including reductions in fine lines and 
wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, skin sallowness, and 
improvement in skin elasticity.51 Matts and Solenick later confirmed the 
results of Bissett et al with 5% and 2% niacinamide.59 The results also 
demonstrated that the anti-aging effects of niacinamide were dose dependent.

The above data demonstrates that topical nicotinic acid preparations can 
enhance epidermal differentiation and barrier function, suggesting that it 
may be effective in the treatment of photodamaged skin and other conditions 
(such as atopic dermatitis) with skin barrier impairments. However, it is 
hard to compare these results with the results presented above on 
niacinamide since not all of the same attributes were monitored (such as 
redness, yellowing, wrinkling, etc). Further investigation is needed to 
compare the efficacy of MN to niacinamide. Both niacinamide and nicotinic 
acid have significant numbers of published studies to answer all three 
major questions to date. However, there is more data available on the 
anti-aging effects and mechanisms of topical niacinamide.

By giving your body niacinamide, the theory is that it allows you to make 
more NAD+, John G. Zampella, MD, assistant professor in the Ronald O. 
Perelman department of dermatology at NYU Langone Health, tells SELF. NAD+ 
then fuels your cells to proliferate and also allows your body to absorb 
and neutralize more free radicals (unstable molecules that can damage 
cells).

Both Dr. Zampella and Laura Ferris, MD, PhD, associate professor in the 
department of dermatology at the University of Pittsburgh, told SELF they 
frequently suggest oral niacinamide to their patients with a high risk for 
non-melanoma skin cancers, and cited this study as the reason why.
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