I did eventually figure this out.  The problem seemed to be that I was not
explicitly disposing of the ImageSurface.  All I had to do in the end was
dispose of the surface and then immediately recreate it before drawing onto
it - the flickering was then gone

private void UpdateViewSurface()
{
        if (viewSurface != null)
        {
                viewSurface.Dispose();
        }
                                
        viewSurface = new ImageSurface(Format.ARGB32,
main_drawingarea.Allocation.Width, main_drawingarea.Allocation.Height);

        using (Context cr = new Context(viewSurface))
        {
<snip>

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