** Reply to message from Automatic digest processor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 
Sat, 31 Mar 2001 00:04:29 -0500


> But now you must pay the price for your
> admissions. Please tell us about your maintenance
> habits,style of riding, mileage out of routine
> consumables,[tires,brake pads,chains sprockets,
> oil&filters,airfilters]and what if any major engine
> work needed.What areas of the chassis required
> attention or rebuild.I would love to know because out
> of the 15 or so bikes I've owned, the GTS is the first
> bike I want to turn 100K and keep for life. Which-
> ever life comes first, mine or the GTS.
>

Thanks for the kudos. I am not worthy. :)

I am kind of "seat of the pants-ish" about my maintenance-
the GTS has blessed me by being almost maintenance free.
The few things that have worn out were darn hard to avoid
problems with anyway, such as the ABS. The several times
I checked the valve adjustment clearance, all 20 were
dead on. I do need to check that again. Would be really cool
if it stayed in adjustment for 100,000 miles!

It's been my most reliable vehicle ever, but let me tell you
what to look out for. Most of this is review for this e-mail list :)

MAINTENANCE
==========
-Bleed the brakes every 6 months _well_. My advice: Put
the ABS into self test mode while a friend helps you bleed
them, especially the rear!
-Keep an eye on the upper "A arm" in the front- make sure
the right-side bearing's cover is kept in-tact. If you ride
a lot in wet weather, those bearings can disintegrate. They
did for me. That seal is very poorly designed.
-The rear swingarm shock "arm-coupling" is a weak point.
There is no easy way to do maintenance on it, and the center-stand
must be removed to service that area. The result is usually
that the sleeve and part needs replacing. Dave Biasotti has
made several of these "maintenance free" (cack!) areas of the bike
mainainable by adding zirk fittings- a great idea.
-Bring the front tire to a 120/70. That will eliminate the
dreaded front end wobble you can get as the tires wear. Note:
the main cause of front end wobble seems to be REAR tire
wear! Sometimes bringing the rear up to pressure stops it!
-If you get a Corbin seat, get it at Corbin's shop so that
they can actually adjust it to your body. Mike Corbin is shaped
like an ape, so the GTS seat he modeled for his bike is atrocious.
-the horn sucks- Drive to California and have Kelly Cash install
new ones.
-The rear wheel will keep its shine forever, but the front will
die quickly from that nasty brake pad dust. Powdercoating is
probably the best answer (hot topic lately).
-Change the oil every 3000 miles. Use a good synthetic- my
bike seems to love it.
-Careful changing plugs! Dirt seems to get down in the areas
where the plugs go. A trick: Unscrew them _most_ of the way,
then turn the motor over a rev or two. The compression will
blow by the threads and blast the dust away. If you have
a compressor and an air blaster, use that too. Don't unscrew
the plug too far or you'll launch em.
-I took a couple teeth off the rear sprocket- didn't notice any
power loss. Many have found if you get to a certain number,
you'll actually increase your mileage, and consume less oil.
I'll try taking a couple more off next time.
-Careful setting the clock (this is a good day to mention it!)
Those little rubber seals can and _will_ wear out. I need to power
down my bike at midnight now to set it. :) I recommend that
actually- best way to avoid wearing them out.
-I hated the stock clutch lever and replaced it with one from
a 93 FZR1000. It engages too far from the handlebar, and
is non-adjustable because it's a hydraulic clutch.
-Mirrors are $100 each. Start saving.

RIDING
=====
-Put your feet on the ground in the parking lot. The only bike
with a larger turning radius is a Ducati.  That coupled with the
ultra-sensitive fuel injection (which has been known to cut
out at low speeds) can easily land you on the ground. As
you build up your technique, you can get by by revving the motor
and keeping the rear brake applied- works really well at maneuvering
at low speeds.
-Start learning to body-steer. Getting some of your weight off
the side of the bike is a big help with a bike this big. At first
it seemed a bit scary leaning off the GTS, but it rewards you with
excellant corning and stability. I don't drag my knees, but I do
shift my weight on sharp curves- every time.
-Brake as late as you want into a corner- this bike will let you
do anything you want without upsetting the steering. But as you
should know, doing  all your braking before the curve is best. Going
downhill though, it's great to be on the GTS.
-Don't forget it's a heavy bike. As great as it feels in the curve,
that's a lot of mass you're throwing around- so keep a good eye
out for nasty road surfaces/sand/etc. ABS can't save you on a curve.

Enjoy.



\|/  \|/   Greg Christopher
 |    |    [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 ICQ:   4997683
 PAGER: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/4997683
        [EMAIL PROTECTED]


I am learning that criticism is not nearly as effective as sabotage.

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