> associated with misinformation. It seems inconceivable that they would
> intentionally publish misinformation on their own product
"Intentionally" is the key word here.
> what it is supposed to do. I believe the fact that you own a Yamaha, which is
> only an assumption on my part, is a testament to what you believe about the
> company. That they do produce a quality product worth owning that you are
> proud of and provides pleasure for you.
Amen, brother!
Anyway,
Hear! Hear!
Bob (RSRBOB), makes some very good points in his diatribe. 2nd guessing
the intent
of the manufacture and/or engineering dept. is to make some assumptions.
And we ALL
know what that means!
Nonetheless...or rather, at the same time, mistakes do happen. I really
cannot say
about this particular issue, I've not had to go there yet. But there
have been a few
minor errors in the manual, such as adjusting the headlight. The
adjusting screws
are switched with each other. Not a big deal certainly, and not one to
cause catastrophic
failure, but it is an error. However, we should also try to remember
that the manual
was originally written in Japanese and as far as translations go....(and
we've had THAT
issue right here on the list too!)
Since we are on the subject, many years ago I used to race quarter mile.
I was one of the
rare birds who was using a Hilborne Fuel Injection system. It was
mechanical FI, EFI had not been invented yet! The 'accepted' and
'manufacture recommended' way to 'sync' the FI, was to make sure that
all the butterfly plates were all fully closed. THEN, you would adjust
the airscrews/fuel screws to the correct operating level. (Altitude,
type of fuel, gear ratio, etc...)
So it would seem that both are important. It would also seem that unless
the butterflies are not equally closed in the off position, then there
should be, in theory, no reason to adjust them. And that is why it
probably says UNLESS the bodies are disassembled. In normal use, they
really shouldn't go 'out' of sync. But I guess it wouldn't hurt to check
them. However, if all looks well, then I believe the adjustment should
be via the air screws. While I certainly don't have an engineering
degree in fuel flow, airflow, combustion chamber design and the like, I
try to follow with what the manufactures recommend also.
Except for tire pressure. LOL. Actually, when I bought the bike new,
with the stock tires, the recommended air pressure DID work just fine.
(Well, I did bump it a pound or two, I'm a hefty fellow and figured it
was closer to riding 2 up. :^)
However, after I replaced them with Dunlop's 204's, I did use a slightly
higher air pressure. I attribute that to the fact that the tires are
designed different and wear different. And I suspect that different
manufactured tyres would likewise need a different air pressure. But
realize also, something (the tires) have CHANGED, therefore
necessitating a possible change in other areas.
Wow, that's enough from me! I can't believe I went on as long as I did!
But I felt compelled to say something, because as an impartial outside
reader of exchanges via the list, I often see several parties trying to
get their points across and somehow occasionally missing the fact that
both parties may be correct. (Sometimes not!)
(Yeah, I know, my therapist says that I don't like conflict and that I
should try to stop helping others get along. Heh. "Can't we all
just....)
'Junior World PeaceMaker' and 'Assumed Internet Expert' signing off....
Brandon :^)
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