Courtesy of Kevin Regards, Rob Chapman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hawkins, Kevin L, SITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 3:47 AM Subject: Save this message!! Does your front swingarm squeak?
> Okay, it rained here yesterday and I got bored. I decided to re-lube the > upper A-arm joints since they tend to dry out and cause an annoying squeak > in the front end. Believe me, they WILL eventually dry out and if you wait > too long to perform this procedure you will have to replace the bearings. It > takes about 2 1/2 hrs and isn't too hard. Here's the procedure: > > 1. Place the bike on the centerstand and remove the front fender, top glove > box, two black dash panels and both left and right side front fairings. The > head fairing can be left on. Remove the "Rubber mat" that lays on top of the > upper A-arm. (Two small screws up front, then pull-twist to release the > rubber lock tabs along the front) > 2. You should have clear access to the upper A-arm pivot points where they > attach to the frame. All references to "Left" and "Right" will be as if you > are sitting in front of the bike facing the headlight. Clip the small zip > tie securing the rubber boot to the left side pivot and remove the boot. > 3. Using a ratcheting socket, remove the nut from the left side pivot bolt. > It is accessed near the bottom of the radiator. Don't lose the washer. > 4. Go to the right side. Look at the pivot point from the outside. You'll > see a large, dark colored hex head bolt with an even larger lock nut screwed > onto it. Behind the lock nut is a locking tab that needs to be pryed off the > lock nut. Now, remove the lock nut. > 5. Using a ratcheting socket, remove the inside nut from the right side > pivot bolt. This can expedited using by inserting a hex wrench into the > outside of the pivot bolt and turning it instead of the ratchet. Again, > don't lose the washer. > 6. Look at the left outside pivot bolt and notice how it has one flat side > that matches up with the frame notch. Using a small hammer, tap, tap, tap > the pivot bolt from the inside until it is removed. > 7. Now unscrew the right side pivot bolt until the threads are disengaged > from the frame. Tap, tap, tap the right side pivot bolt until it is fully > removed. > 8. You should now be able to move the upper A-arm assembly around enough > where you can get full access to one side at a time as it will swivel left > or right. > 9. Pivot the A-arm and gain free access to the left side. Slide the bearing > sleeve from inside the A-arm bearing. You should be able to see the needle > bearing inside. > 10. Apply a liberal amount of grease inside the bearing and work it around > with your finger. Slide the bearing sleeve back in and make sure it turns > easily. > 11. On the right side, there are TWO smaller bearing sleeves that insert > from each side. Remove them and apply grease to the inside pivot bearing. > Don't be alarmed that it doesn't look like the other side. It's not a needle > bearing assembly. After applying grease, make sure the bearing is positioned > so that the bolt can pass through. You'll see what I mean when you get > there. > 12. Re-insert the bearing sleeves on both sides and position the A-arm in > alignment with the left and right frame holes. Lightly grease the right side > pivot bolt where it will contact the bearing and screw it in through the > frame and into the bearing. Leave about 1/4 to 3/8 inch of the threaded bolt > showing on the outside of the frame. > 13. Lightly grease the left side pivot bolt and re-insert it through the > frame and into the bearing. Make sure that the flat notch on the bolt lines > up with the frame notch. > 14. Replace flat washers and nuts securing both pivot bolts. You should now > be able to screw the right side pivot bolt in and out which adjusts the > camber of the wheel. Notice how the upper A-arm assembly moves left and > right. Simply place it somewhere near the middle of the adjustment range. > 15. Slide the lock tab washer over the right side pivot bolt and screw the > lock nut down tight. Tap the lock tab down over the locknut. > 16. Using two zipties, re-attach the rubber boot the left side pivot bolt. > DONE! > > It may be necessary to order a new lock tab washer for the right side pivot > bolt, but they seem to be re-usable once. I also order an extra rubber boot, > turn it upside down and use it on the right side! Why Yamaha only boots one > side is a mystery to me. There is a drainage hole that ends up pointing up > instead of down on the right boot so I simply siliconed the hole shut and > cut a small hole on the bottom side. > > Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC > AMA #609423 // [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://www.geocities.com/~raddboy > Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 // '93 Yamaha GTS1000 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.338 / Virus Database: 189 - Release Date: 14/03/02
