Very good Ken.......but you forgot one thing...:>)))))  Maybe two....

One the recommended chain lubricant is by Yamaha is heavier 30W-50.
Actually  80 -90 wt. rear axel gear oil with its extreme pressures additives
is even better, and often recommended.  I believe gear oil is better for
chains personally.   It isn't thrown off as easily.

Two..the lubrication procedure you outline is good, but it isn't very
effective, unless it is done every 50 to 100 miles, and at a minimum every
tank of gas. If you only make short runs with a motorcycle your procedure is
easy to follow.  If you use a motorcycle for 200 mile plus days and ride in
what ever weather is thrown at you, chances are the frequency of the
procedure you describe won't be followed.

John �Hawke� Laurenson

http://www.hawkeoiler.com/
http://www.superblackbird.com/hawk1.cfm
http://aircraftgallery.com/chainoiler/index.html
http://www.triumphnet.com/st/acc/hawke/
http://www.kevinhawk.com



On 8/27/02 8:15 PM, "Ken Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Say guys I typed this in a long time ago.  Stored in a special folder.
> I don't think I have the mag around.  Hope this helps.
>
> Ken Swartz
>
>
> CHAIN FACTS
> MOTOR CYCLIST AUG 92   PG 56
>
>
> Chain drive is efficient and cheap it allows gear ratios to be changed
> relatively easily and tolerates more abuse than any shaft or belt.  On
> non-o-ring chains use a good quality spray chain lube.  Ride the bike to warm
> up the chain then spray the chain between the plates on both sides then
> between the plates and the rollers.  The only lubricant most o-ring chains
> need is a rust inhibitor.  Use 30 weight oil or six-in-one or a lubricant
> made for o-rings.  If the chain gets wet use WD-40 or Kal-Gard 30/30 to
> displace the moisture that promotes rust.  Cleaning opinions differ.  RK
> recommends a brush or rag dipped in kerosene while Tsubaki specifies spraying
> WD-40 in the chain.  In any case, never use detergents of a car-wash because
> water that penetrates the chain causes rust and shortens chain life.
>
>   Avoid soaking o-ring chains in any solvent like kerosene and don't clean
> the chain in an industrial parts washer or solvent tank.  The solvent swells
> the o-rings, destroying the chains self lubricating properties.  In wet
> weather an o-ring chain needs lubrication every couple of hundred miles as
> the lubricant is washed off.
>
>   Replace a chain if rusty or has noticeable kinks or tight spots or the
> stretch is over 3 percent.  With the bike on its stand and the transmission
> in gear, pull the wheel backward to tension the chain.  Then measure the
> distance between 19 pins on the bottom run.  For 520 or 530 chain the
> distance should be no more than 12 1/8 inches, while 630 chain should be 15 �
> or less.
>
>   Inspect front and rear sprockets for hooked or shiny worn patches.
> Run-out of more than .005 inch means the sprocket needs replaced.  If your
> bikes comes with a non-o-ring and you want to use an o-ring check that there
> is enough clearance on chain guards for o-ring chains are wider
>
>   Numbers sizes of chains.  The first digit determines the pitch or the
> distance between pin centers, in eighths of an inch.  420 and 428 have 4/8
> inch pitch, while 520,525,530 and 532 have 5/8 inch pitch.  630 has 6/8 inch
> pitch.  The second number generally denotes roller width, in eight's inches,
> between plates.  520 chain has 2/8 inch wide, 530 has 3/8 inch wide, 428 is
> odd with 5/16 inch wide rollers.  530 vrs 532 roller diameter.  530 rollers
> are .400 inch while 532 chain is .435 inch.
>
>   When cold o-ring chain feels stiff to the touch, and the links are more
> difficult to bend by hand.  After a couple of miles of riding the lubricant
> inside the links warm up and the links free up and power loss disappears.
> Once the non-o-ring chain gets hot it is less efficient than o-ring chains.
> As the weakest link in the chain the master link should be used only once.
> If you split an endless chain, a riveting link should be used to attach the
> ends.  The designers don't trust the strength of the particular master link
> that works with that brand of chain.

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