Hi Monica, Yes, I caught on to the needle problem fairly fast. And also discovered that the machine was made for one thickness thread and that was it. The machine wasn't broken after all it was a thread and needle problem. With that fixed I made some masks and then it really didn't want to play. This time the machine broke down because the wheel that lifts the needle fell off. I need to get a grip and open the machine again to see what went wrong and if it can be fixed. Or finally fix the hand cranked one 😏 I hand sew as a rule, so fixing the machines tend to be ignored most of the time. And then I need it 😂
Gunvor <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> Virusfri. www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Thu, 7 May 2020 at 20:01, Monica <[email protected]> wrote: > Hello, > > I am sorry to interrupt here, since I post only once in a decade... Have > you changed your needle? I work with my great-aunt's legacy Singer from > 1957. If it gets cranky I try the needle. Run your thumbnail down the > needle and if it catches on the sharp end it needs to be replaced. I made > costumes for the Nutcracker in December and regularly make 16th C. clothing > on it and it got plenty cranky! > > Monica > > -----Original Message----- > From: h-costume <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mijauww > Sent: Saturday, May 2, 2020 11:25 AM > To: Historical Costume <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Masks > > Hi, > I tried the material combination Jennie told us about and will be sticking > to that after we both tested wearing it outside for 3 hours each. > And ppl actually kept some distance too. Possibly because they looked more > professional than some of my early attempts.😂 > > The one thing we both agreed on no matter what material I used, was that a > wire over the nose and under the eyes worked best. It keeps the hot breath > from blowing into your eyes. And once you have shaped it to fit the lower > part of your nose, you don't need to keep adjusting because the mask slips. > You reshape every time you go out of the house with a clean mask. > What works best for us is shaping around the lower half of the nose and > adjusting the wire in a slight curve under the eyes. Easy to adjust for > glasses too. > > My local hardware chain sells aluminium wire with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. > Easy to shape , you can wash and re-wash and doesn't break easily. I have > been testing using the wire in different mask shapes and fabrics. I insert > the wire into bias tape at the top of the mask, making sure the wire is on > the outside of all the layers (otherwise it hurts). After having the wire > work i'ts way out through the fabric a few times, I bent the ends. A few > stitches at each end keeps the wire in place. 10 cm/ 4 inches works better > than covering the whole top as far as comfort goes and still keeps hot > breath out of our eyes. > > And who would have thought that making masks would kill my sewing machine? > Even sewing tents didn't. Mind you, it is considered an antique sort off. > It is from around 1970, can only sew straight and zigzag. Has a breakdown > if I try using any kind of thread that isn't standard sewing thread > thickness and considers sewing more that one spool of under-thread as rude > demands. 😂 > > Gunvor > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > [email protected] > https://indra.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > [email protected] > https://indra.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] https://indra.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
