No matter how I try to 'tweak' the tunic I end up with something that
looks like a potato sack - or worse.
I would love to end up with a tunic that: sits properly on my
shoulders/neckline, allows me to do work without the sleeves getting in
the way, long 'bell' sleeves, enough width in the 'skirt' area for me to
walk normally, slightly fitted in the torso area.
I can get a t-tunic dress that fits me out of 4 yards of 45" wide
material. I use underarm gussets and side gussets. My basic pattern is,
as near as I can do in ASCII (using a fixed-width font), as follows, except
that it will take extra fabric to make the long bell sleeves:
basic t-tunic, front view, NOT to scale
|<--sleeve-->|<----body---->|<--sleeve-->|
__________________neck__________________
| | \__/ | |
|____________| |____________|
| / \ | underarm | / \ | hanging
| / \ |<--gussets--> | / \ |<-sleeve
| / \| |/ \ | piece
| / | | \ |
| / /| |\ \ |
|/ / | side | \ \|
/ / |<--gussets--->| \ \
/ | | \
/ | | \
/ | | \
(lengthen as needed)
The body piece is about shoulder width, and the underarm gussets make the
ease and fitting the bust needs. The side gussets allow you to walk.
The sleeve pieces will be shorter than you think they should be because the
shoulder seam drops off the shoulder a little.
Sew the bias edges of the side gussets to the sides of the front and back
pieces.
Make the underarm gussets a square cut on grain, fold it diagonally and sew
it in so that it's bias on the diagonal/folded edge under your arm where it
needs to stretch.
Tie your sleeve points together behind you when you're working or there's
no way to keep them out of what you're doing. Cooks/servers didn't wear
dangly sleeves when cooking/serving, or if they did they got them out of
the way somehow so the things didn't flop into the Master's food.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
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