No matter how I try to 'tweak' the tunic I end up with something that looks like a potato sack - or worse.

I would love to end up with a tunic that: sits properly on my shoulders/neckline, allows me to do work without the sleeves getting in the way, long 'bell' sleeves, enough width in the 'skirt' area for me to walk normally, slightly fitted in the torso area.

I can get a t-tunic dress that fits me out of 4 yards of 45" wide material. I use underarm gussets and side gussets. My basic pattern is, as near as I can do in ASCII (using a fixed-width font), as follows, except that it will take extra fabric to make the long bell sleeves:

 basic t-tunic, front view, NOT to scale

|<--sleeve-->|<----body---->|<--sleeve-->|
 __________________neck__________________
|            |     \__/     |            |
|____________|              |____________|
|     /   \  |  underarm    |  /   \     |  hanging
|    /     \ |<--gussets--> | /     \    |<-sleeve
|   /       \|              |/       \   |  piece
|  /         |              |         \  |
| /         /|              |\         \ |
|/         / |    side      | \         \|
/         /  |<--gussets--->|  \         \
         /   |              |   \
        /    |              |    \
       /     |              |     \
          (lengthen as needed)

The body piece is about shoulder width, and the underarm gussets make the ease and fitting the bust needs. The side gussets allow you to walk.

The sleeve pieces will be shorter than you think they should be because the shoulder seam drops off the shoulder a little.

Sew the bias edges of the side gussets to the sides of the front and back pieces.

Make the underarm gussets a square cut on grain, fold it diagonally and sew it in so that it's bias on the diagonal/folded edge under your arm where it needs to stretch.

Tie your sleeve points together behind you when you're working or there's no way to keep them out of what you're doing. Cooks/servers didn't wear dangly sleeves when cooking/serving, or if they did they got them out of the way somehow so the things didn't flop into the Master's food.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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