Depends on your sense and comfort with what would be fashionable to a "matron 
of mature years" Are you, or your character, a person of means to keep up with 
fashion, with at least a maid to help you dressa la Dolly Madison, or are you 
someone more comfortable with the fashions of your youth and have no maid and 
too much to do to fuss much with fashionable attire? Or do you adopt 
"present-day" fashions to suit what looks best or is easy to do for you? Jane 
Austen adopted headgear as early as her 30's as it saved her much time in 
hairdressing and had to be coaxed into having her hair done by a male 
hairdresser. Although she got many compliaments, she wrote she "longed for my 
snug cap" Dolly Madison, preferred fashionable bright colors and the latest in 
turbans, in counterpoint to the clothing of her Quaker youth. 

Older women might wear more fashionable clothing, but cling to the support of 
the stays(corsets)that they had worn since girlhood. Also many women of all 
ages, wore the "Empire/Regency" fashionable mode, whether it was flattering or 
not, as with any fashion. And of course a mature figure then, could wear the 
high-waisted fashions and be thought a fine figure of a female, whereas now, 
only anorexia-like figures are thought attractive in the stereotypical 
"Regency" gown.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hope Greenberg
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 3:27 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1st Regency

Hi -

There's an event coming up in early September for which I'd like to make my 
first regency gown, c1815. I'm interested in authenticity (will gladly 
sacrifice modern notions of what is flattering to acheive it). 
I'll be drafting everything myself.

Does anyone have advice on the following:

1) As a matron of, ahem, mature years, I'm planning on making a corset. 
Though it dates to a bit later, I thought I might go with the more substantial 
corset as seen in the Kyoto Museum
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/1819stay.jpg) instead of the Corset รก Ninon 
(http://www.regencygarderobe.com/First%20Decade%20corsetry.htm). 
Any comments on that one?

2) Under the corset will go the linen shift, of course, but over that I'll need 
a petticoat. I'm a bit confused by some of the websites I've been visiting: 
were period petticoats shaped like the gowns that went over them, that is, with 
a small sleeveless bodice, like a slip? Would you recommend linen or cotton?

3) The event has some day events and a ball in the evening. Since there isn't 
much time, though, I was hoping I could "cheat" by making a gown that could be 
used for the ball, but making a spencer or pelisse to cover it up, and wearing 
a chemisette to disguise it further. (I'll swap a bonnet for a turban, too.) 
The two examples I'm leaning towards are:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/02-1810walkingspencer.jpg
or
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/01-acandace-1815-2-yes.jpg

This would probably mean making the gown white cotton. Would that be OK for a 
ball gown, especially for someone my age?

4) Since the local Joann's is woefully limited when it comes to fine cottons, I 
was going to order some from online (Farmhouse Fabrics? any otheres?). Which is 
lighter: lawn or batiste? Recommendations either way?

(For a future day gown I was wondering if this would be appropriate:
http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=94847281015469484&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=8294)

5) Since this event is in the context of the 1815 Battle of Plattsburgh, New 
York (http://www.battleofplattsburgh.com/main.html) I was wondering if I should 
be focusing on styles from a few years earlier. How up to date do you think a 
well-to-do lady from New York, Philadelphia, or Boston would be?

So many questions! But this group is always so helpful!!

Thanks.

- Hope


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