----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Martha McCain pattern (cross post)


>
> In a message dated 8/16/2005 11:26:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> I was  just looking at the Simplicity website and it appears that there's
> another  Martha McCain ACW pattern #4400
>
>
> Not bad. Looks like Scarlet's dress she wears thru the Reconstruction. I
> prefer the fuller sleeves. I just don't see many tight sleeves in 1860s
> pics....actually I can't remember seeing ANY. [1840s is another matter]
and the
> shallow point is very 1850s to me. The cartridge pleating all the way
'round is
> also very 1840-50s.  Most 1860s  day dresses have  waistlines that go
straight
> across, with the bodice closing CF and the waistband  of the attached
skirt in
> flat pleats closing a little left of CF, hidden in  a pleat with a hidden
> pocket there.
>
> But y'know...never say never....

I'll admit the narrow sleeves are not terribly common but they do turn up
e.g. http://snipurl.com/h35y [1] the sleeves are still moderately full but
not incredibly so, http://snipurl.com/h35z [2] they all have narrow sleeves
but especially the woman in black, http://snipurl.com/h362 [3] the woman on
the left, and http://snipurl.com/h366 [4] very similar to the design with
two puffs but the puffs are larger and more droopy this is also an example
of a pointed waist and the woman on the right has a fully pleated skirt.
As for the pointed waistline, looking at these fashion plates I see as many
pointed waistlines around 1858-60 as I do horizontal waistlines, by about
1862 the pointed waistline has died out in favour of the horizontal
waistline. e.g. http://snipurl.com/h36b [5], http://snipurl.com/h36c [6],
http://snipurl.com/h36f [7] though this one's a zouave style so maybe it's a
special case, http://snipurl.com/h36g [8],  http://snipurl.com/h36i [9]  and
http://snipurl.com/h36j [10]
So I'm not sure about combining the elements (though no. 4 does) as the
sleeves are generally mid 1860s and the bodice is late 50s to early 60s, but
the bodice would certainly suit somebody up to c 1863 who is a year or two
behind the fashions and for those who are up to date on the latest fashions
it could be a dress which is a couple of years old as this style is not so
easily altered as the peplum style bodices if you have cut the skirt to
accomodate the point of the bodice (instead of just folding it down).
Elizabeth

P.S. If the snipped URLs don't work the full URLs are
1.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=154&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
2.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=156&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
3.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=153&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
4.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=143&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
5.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=421&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
6.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=128&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
7.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=151&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTM
P=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
8.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=110&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
9.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=129&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb
10.
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/viewer.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=102&CISORESTMP=/site-templates/search_results-sub.html&CISOVIEWTM
P=/site-templates/item_viewer.html&CISOMODE=thumb

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