> I am reconstructing the Florentine lady of the Album > Amicorum > http://snipurl.com/h5yn
> What I'm uncertain about is whether the sleeves shown > (which appear to be white) are part of a complete gown > beneath the 'doublet' style gown or whether they are > likely to have been pinned or tied on. I suppose this > will also affect the 'decorative' skirt - if it is > part of a complete gown then it will have to be > attached... Ahhh the old question... for my money there are a few ways to tackle this. I had to explore a few ways myself for my Valois gown. Are those sleeves connected to an underdoublet? Are the sewn in? Laced in? Let's look at the evidence that we have: Extant items: kirtle from Northern Europe, sleeves laced in. This is a full under garment but the sleeves are seperate. I'm thinking so one could change the sleeves for a different look, or for easier cleaning/repair etc. Dorothea Sabine's Spanish inspired gown. Fitted sleeves sewn in. This one is closer to the date, but not so close to the area. http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm Girls' Spanish court gown, c1600. Fitted sleeves sewn in to the shoulders. Closer to your place and time, but the sleeves match. and there is an over gown. Alcega's pattern books. Generally the fitted sleeves are cut with a doublet. I don't know though if there were times where one would buy fabric just for the sleeves. It's possible. http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/patterns.htm The doublets however are not shown cut with skirts. The only skirted items that aren't gowns are cuerpo baxo y vasquina (kirtles in effect, with low square necklines and no sleeves.) There are patterns for gored skirts as well as half circle skirts: What I would do, to make the ensemble really usable is to make a matching skirt, jerkin style underbodice and sleeves. Made so you can wear all the layers if you wish, but also remove the jerkin style underbodice if you need to. This is what I'm doing for my Valois gown. I sewed both sets of sleeves to the doublet bodice but that will be laced from now on. I'm also making a jerkin to match my sleeves so that I can wear the under layers as a seperate ensemble or with the main gown. http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm My gown is earlier than yours but they are related to each other. michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.15/80 - Release Date: 23/08/2005 _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
