At 10:55 PM -0500 8/29/05, Robin Netherton wrote: <a bunch of great practical advice on gore insertion>
On the linen shirt of St. Louis, I believe the gore top is pointy, but the attachment of the point is reinforced by thin strips that bind the long seams of the gores and extend beyond the gore point by an inch or two, crossing at the point. I should note that the handwork on that shirt is unbelievably delicate -- the stitching on the binding is so very small, and the seam allowances trimmed quite close (something that requires a fine linen with a high thread count). But clearly they felt they needed something to keep the point from tearing out at that spot, where the seam allowances would have been vanishingly small. Heather can probably speak more about the sewing methods here; she's the stitch expert ;-)
Although Burnham (and everyone who follows her) shows this gore as having a pointed top, this is a misleading simplification. The gore is actually slightly gathered at the top, and so the actual "pattern piece" must have a somewhat flattened top. I don't know that we can conclude that the binding was intended to reinforce the top of the point -- although it may well have had that effect. _All_ the seams on this garment are finished with a tape binding, and the extension of the tapes into an overlapping "X" at the top of the gore, similarly to the same effect at the center front of the neck facing, seems to be designed to cope with the acuteness of the angle (i.e., rather than trying to turn the corner with a continuous tape).
Heather -- ***** Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] <http://heatherrosejones.com> ***** _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
