>  I would bet my paycheck that if we can find
> shaping seams in the back of the garment, then we could probably find
> them in at least one example in the front.  And again, in a large scale
> production, where many gowns are being made, fitting that type of
> garment _is_ faster and easier.

There is evidence of curved side front seams that go into the armpts for
doublet bodices. The extant jerkin in the Met, I have the pattern from
Blanche Payne's book, first ed. History of costume has just such seams. The
same placment is seen here:
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_b181.htm
http://www.vertetsable.com/research_burguen.htm
Although it's not curved. I suspect the curving in the jerkin is from the
finetuning of the piece to fit to shape.

The main thing is they are shaping for a conical body so are gently curved
rather than curved to shape the bust. The very very shallow curve worked
well for me and my Valois bodice. But I'm sure someone with a larger bust
would need a rounder curve.

Isn't there a curved seam in one of Jean Hunnisett's patterns as well? I can
never remember which portrait it was inspired by, but it was a doublet
bodice. There was the option of a very curved seam or a fish from centre
front to bust point

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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