> 'Mary of Hungary gown' is 14th century isn't it?) and a whole lot of
> educated guesswork or trial and error.

1520s.

The thing is when you "know" so much about an era you then start getting
pickier about other details, so it's not just a question of "oh there's more
info so it's easier."

In later periods you are also looking a larger population and indeed some
rather more subtle differences in clothing by region, month of the year and
indeed time of the day and occasion. Also age appropriate. It's still quite
difficult for me to work out why a garment is considered more appropriate
for an older woman than a younger. It's often not about colour, though
darker and duller shades are often listed as more seemly, not is it always
about ornamentation (sometimes plainer is too severe..) .

On another discussion list (message board) someone queried the use of a
bustle in 1880-81. The answer is not as simple as yes, wear a little one.
The answer was not as simple at the time either.

While there is more information, there are also more decisions to be made
because the rate of fashion changes really do increase to the point you have
seasonal fashions in the mid-late 19thC especially.  Also while there is
more opportunity to directly copy, there is ever so much more to research if
you want to know why and how.

One of my favourite eras covers the years from 1875-1885 and there certainly
is a lot of photographic evidence, but a lot of of it is undated and it can
be very tricky getting a good date because like now people cling on to older
fashions and use local fashions that may not appear in the usual books. The
usual rule to find the latest fashion and date from there doesn't always
work either, because that can either be a completely random item that is
ahead of its time or still be worn a few years before the image was taken.

So more information doesn't always mean an easier task;)

I recreate and create costume from many historical and media sources. The
only easy way for any of them is to just start creating immediately without
doing the reasearch, or at least saying "enough! my brain will explode if I
take up any more information!";) There is always more to learn. I started
going mad with my Valois because of the amount of information I could look
at (weaving types, stitch types where the cloth was woven.....)

michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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