Sure, until I find it in my backed up pictures, you can get a hold of
these books;
Payne, Blanche. *History of Costume - From the Ancient Egyptians to the
Twentieth Century* (1965). Harper & Row, USA.
This book is rather odd. It has no ISBN number. The copyright on mine
is 1965, but I cannot tell what edition it is. It has a Library of
Congress Cataloge card number 65-10419. It is critical to get the
"right" version as some versions do not have the patterns in the back.
In my particular edition there is a B&W photo of a surviving base (fig.
288, pg 272) from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arms & Armor
Collection. It also has a to-scale pattern draft in the back of the
book, with notes.
Another good base picture can be found in:
Davenport, Millia, The Book of Costume (1948), Crown Publishers, New York.
My edition is a two volume series, second printing. On page
159, figure 450 is a quilted gold brocade Waffenrock which supposedly
belonged to Maximilian. This one is photo'd (IMO) inside out so you can
see the tapings on the inside.
The gowns which have this type of pleating were sometimes called falten
(pleated) or wappen Roeke (oe = umlauted o). Wappen can mean a few
things depending on the time and place (weapon or coat of arms),
sometimes it is spelled waffen. So again in IMO they were probably
copied from the style used in the military bases.
Sg
* *
*
*
Nancy Kiel wrote:
I looked thru the Met's online info, and couldn't find the base. Can you offer
guidance?
----- Original Message -----
From: WickedFrau<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Historical Costume<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Organ pipe pleats
I'm not sure if you want organ pipe pleating or rolled pleats
documentation, but if it is the former, the Metropolitan Museum of Art
has a military base which is organ pipe pleated (Early 16th century).
Blanche Paynes "History of Costume" has a discussion and a pattern for
it. I've spent some time looking for an earlier word for them, but have
not come up with it in English or German. The English word only goes
back to to about 1890. The current German word Röhrenfalten doesn't
appear in Grimm's etemological dictionary. I have queried both Leo
online forums (back in March 05) and non-current German forum (just today):
If you find anything, I'd sure like to hear about it.
Sg
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
[email protected]
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
[email protected]
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
