I'm very large, even by American standards ;o), and significantly well-endowed, as well (a problematice issue even at lower weights), and I do just fine with a standard 4-panel gown, if you're talking basic 14th century fitted gown. (Robin could verify this...she's actually fitted me at a workshop, bless her heart! ;o) But then, for this sort of garment, you've got the inset sleeve and all, so there really isn't any extra fabric in the shoulder area. Where I *have* run into exactly that, though, is with less, uhm, fitted articles of clothing? Tee-tunics and their various versions are probably the most obvious. I also experience it with underclothing along the lines of 18th-century shifts, or the fairly body-skimming shifts one would wear under a Tudor gown or 16th c. Flemish outfit. When I make those, I take a wedge of fabric off either shoulder--like double-pointed triangles, like this: |\ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ | \ ------ | / | / | / | / | / | / |/
The horizontal dashed line is the shoulder line. I just taper the rest of the cutout down to below my bust. When completed, you really can't see that there's fabric missing, it's only when you lay it flat, and really look, that it becomes apparent. I've never done one of the Greenland-style gowns with the extra, gores of fabric running from the armpit area to the hem, although I'm planning on doing something *like* that to make myself a couple of Norse aprons. --Sue ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan B. Farmer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Costume List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 10:28 AM Subject: [h-cost] rectangular construction tunic > It was on one of my garb lists that we were discussing rectanguolar > construction techniques for making a gown for a large busted woman. > There were extra gores down the sides (at least from the bottom of the > armsye to the waist) in addition to the skirt gores to allow for the > extra flesh. Does anybody remember that thread? I'm not having any > luck finding it. > > The gist was that if you just made the "standard" 4-panel gown with > skirt gores, the shoulder seams would be down somewhere around your > elbows because that's how wide the fabric would have to be to go around > the bust. > > Thanks, > Susan _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
