At 11:31 PM 11/23/2005, you wrote:
I wish that the website could help, but not a lot of women back then were
ever my size, at least not any pictured (which is why I like Lady
Guildford's portrait - she's plump and she's only a little younger than I
am - 27). That's why I was really interested to see the Alcega layout for
a "fat woman".
Thank you for sharing those resource images. I have seen or have most of
them, but a few were new to me.
I am also a larger woman (about 20-22 in Women's size) and have had 3 kids,
one recently, so I understand the size differences. However, there isn't
that much differences in fabric usage in a good layout from a normal
woman's size, to a larger one. Well, lets look at Alcega's layouts.
Compare Alcega's layouts and fabric requirements in his various garments
for a "fat woman".
Kirtle of silk for a woman: 6 1/8 x 2/3 ells
Silk kirtle for a fat woman: 7 1/2 x 2/3 ells
Kirtle of cloth for a fat woman: 2 1/4 x 2 ells
Kirtle of cloth rash: 2 x 2 ells (cloth rash has no nap)
Kirtle of cloth rash for a fat woman: 2 1/4 x 2 ells
In this case, kirtle appears to be a skirt only, not the complete skirt and
bodice of earlier times, but different than the Skirt that is shown in a
different diagram. Also something I am just noting is that there are
layouts for "kirtle and bodice" or "kirtle and little jerkin" for women,
but none are shown for fat women. I am not sure why this is.
The thing I am leary with looking at Alcega's patterns is that it is for
the 1580s, and styles for that time frame are different than the earlier
Tudor time frame. I recently got a hold of a book from the library on
Spanish garments, Hispanic Costume: 1480 - 1530 by Ruth M. Anderson. Let me
look over the images again, and see if there are any insights to be gained
from that book. I know I got a lot on the men's garments, especially the
bases, but the women's garments appear to be very different than the Tudor
style.
And I have some of Livinia Teerlinks images, but those were miniatures, and
hard to determine what they wore. She also comes into Henry VIII's service
in 1546 according to the book I have, so her Tudor minis are going to be a
later time frame than you are looking at. I have an image that her father,
Simon Benninck (sometimes spelled Bennick or Bening) painted that shows
ladies in various outdoor situations wearing Tudor garments (c.1540). There
is no visible means of closures on the outer gowns, and he shows both front
and back views. They are at the V&A museum, and I have found color images
online, but not in any good detail. They also would not be English, but I
think Flemish in location.
http://66.102.7.104/u/vam?q=cache:bnvSW5a1woUJ:www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11732-popup.html+bening&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
That is one, and I can't seem to find the other right now.
Hilliard wasn't born until 1547, so his images will not be helpful for your
time frame. I don't know anything about Jean Perreal, so I will check him
out as well.
hth,
Kimiko
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