Hi Gail,

I do the same thing. If a site goes to Acrobat, I shut it down. I gave the software many chances... still don't like it.

A very good question... I don't mind answering about my usage of the word restoration.

Three definitions of restoration from my old gigantic Webster's Dictionary. LOL! Dusting the book off. Only for you Gail will I dust today!

1. A restoring or being restored.
2. A putting or bringing back into a former, normal, or unimpaired state or condition.
3. A representation of the original form or structure.  Reconstruction.
Syn. replacement, re-established, renovation, reinstatement, revival, recovery. A modern word in the recording industry is digitally remastered. YUCK! My son gave me a CD for Christmas that wasn't digitally remastered. Sounded like 1960s AM radio. Only gift I have ever returned!

The problems with the originals images is that they are in such poor condition.. Water stains, age stains, chipped pages, torn pages, color faded 75% of the time, people writing on the pages, etc. If you could see the condition of some of these images in their raw form, you would say a prayer over them and never touch them. Now some of our collections are in excellent conditions: 19th Century French Peasants book, Bon Ton collection, my recent purchases of the French play costume renderings collection, and the 1814 British occupations books. The 1814 book was made exclusively for a wealthy person in England, and had been in a family collection for years. But I purchased all these at top dollar for my budget. Those purchases are rare for me but I believe their contents will greatly help our website visitors. I actually purchased them more for the subject matter than the condition of the images. Those images need very little work and are more from an organizational project that cleaning the graphics. Go on eBay and see how much the Bon Ton images starting bids are.

I will pay high end for certain topics. The money spent on one high-end collection, I could have purchased several other collections in not-so-good condition. Now high end for me, is definitely not what high-end for the art world. Sometimes, I will see these items on eBay and they have no bids because the starting price is too high. I then privately write the dealers or private owner and ask if they can pull the auction and sell to me privately. I explain to the dealer my purpose for needing the collection or book and let them see my online Library. I feel that I am saving a collection that is being split up and sold individually. I can present the collection as a whole. This was the case of the 1814 British collection. The dealer took book apart and was selling them individually. After explaining to him and that I want to save the collection, he came way down off his eBay price and sold me the entire collection. Not only did he sent me the plates, but he included the book's description pages of the occupations. Those pages would have probably ended up in the garbage. What a wonderful soul he is for wanting to sell it as a collection to me. It took a lot of emails to convince him that the entire collection needed saving. As for the French plays renderings... I saw two of these plates on eBay. I wrote the dealer and asked if she had more like it. She had a collection of a couple of hundred of renderings that this artist did for the plays and some for fashion designers. She wanted in the thousands for it. No way! I'm not rich. She gave me an option to purchase the theatrical or fashion designer collections at a lower price. I love the designers, but couldn't pass up the theater. So the fashion designer collection was broken up and sold individually. Made me feel like I had Sophie's Choice. Which child do I love more?

When our images in sad condition are repainted, our first step is to make a palette of the colors on the images. Sometimes we do not need to repaint the entire image. But a majority of the pre-1870 images need to be partially or completely repainted. The worse years for bad paint jobs in the books were the 1830-1860s. I have one sad-looking lady (my images are called ladies, men, or children) that I have been working on back and forth for a year. The original painting is so messed up. Kimiko worked on the majority of 1838 images for me. She can testify as to how bad those images really looked. I scanned the illustration pages and photocopied the text pages of that book then put it back on the shelf. It will probably never be open again as long as I own it. When Kim worked on each image, she had a full description of each costume. The original scans are at a high resolution to try to pick up the original colors as much as possible. Believe me when you are repainting these images, you get to a point you want to pull your hair out. The originals are in such bad condition. You just have to get away from it for a few days. When an image is complete, we are on top of the world. It is such a wonderful feeling to completed an image, as the description's author had intended for it to look like. YIPPEE! After 160 something years later, the author's vision has been fulfilled!

Other problems occur with these illustrations in the book. The ink in the type in the books have bleed through on the images. The type letter were struck so hard that the ink or impression would go through to the image. When you scan these problem images, the ink or impression shows up in the scan. These problems even hurt the b&w images. So we have to clean that up too. This happened so much in these 1838 images. Being a teacher I learned to read students work upside down or backwards. On a few of these images, I could read the entire corresponding text page *backwards* on the color fashion plates. Want to hear our graphics people grip... work on one of those images! You have to take lots of breaks!

When I decided to start this repainting or restoration project of fashion plates, was when I went to the London Gallery and saw a very popular painting. I have forgotten the name of it, but it is the medieval pregnant woman and the man in the beaver hat. I was so-o-o disappointed to see the original, that I almost cried. The oil paint was so cracked and was badly in need of restoration. I thought please just put it in a safe place out of the light to preserve it.

If our images were being presented as a piece of artwork or for reselling the actual fashion plates, I could see showing the original scans. But our goal is education of past fashions. I believe people would like to see the details of the costumes and previously didn't even notice them because a painter of the time did a poor job. Our graphic artist who have worked on these images can tell you how frustrating it is to have a dress described in the text as having blue skirt with violet trim and the trim was painted yellow. Or if that dress had a violet sash and it was painted over green because the painter was in a hurry to be paid by piecework. I truly don't believe that the intentions the fashion author was to have these goofs or they would have printed the descriptions as they did. The problem why these goofs were allowed was because these magazines were very popular and I think they needed to speed up production time. The ladies who painted the plates needed the money and were paid by piece. To get more pieces done *some* did sloppy work. Prior to this period the fashion plates painting was so much better. But not as many people had access to these publications, so the demand was low. The painter could take their time.

Generally when the painter took their time, their is a big difference in the quality of the images. This is so true in the original renderings of the French plays. My lot contains the original costume designer's renderings for these plays. They are SO beautiful it is unreal! Going on memory, but I think there are about 20 plays represented in the collection. Each sheet has app. five costume renderings. FYI, the bulk of the work behind this project will be the research. I am not that familiar with French plays of that period. I do recognize some of the actresses' names, but I want the homework done before they go on the web. I will spend little time working on the images on the computer because of their excellent condition.

The amount of research that goes behind these projects can go on for years. I can't even try to guess the amount of research projects that are on-going. Even when they are on the web, the research continues. Costume research is like genealogy, you turn over one stone and then the next one needs turning over. And then, Oh my goodness, you find a skeleton under all those stones. That leads you to a whole new train of thought.

My newest venture is a computer drawing tablet (WACOM to the computer Geeks). I have wanted one since I first saw it at a publishing house in 1996. My husband got me one for Christmas!!! I won't touch tablet until I have read the manual. It looks so promising for speeding up the time we use on images. That leads me to technology....

Once you move into the 20th Century, the printing technology became so much better. The 20th Century images take far less of our time to work on compared to the 19th Century. The 20th Century image colors aren't as faded, the description generally matches the fashion in the plate. The machine print image details are more defined than the 19th Century hand-painted.

LOL! Back to the CD being digitally remastered from the beginning of the message. Compare what we do to what the music industry is doing to old recordings. I don't want to call what we do to the images as digitally remastering.... don't think I have mastered but a couple of thinks in my life but giving birth to only male children, and collecting dust. Those things I have mastered!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Reply via email to