My grateful thanks to all who commented on this painting and
garments. I think I have a handle on what is going on, at least
enough to make a fair run at it. I will stop by the library to day
to pick up Fashion Detail. I was also looking at Patterns of Fashion
and found some similar couched cording in some of the photographs. I
look forward to working on this. :D
As for the design on dress, I agree with Joanna and it was likely a
cord or braid. I gave the client the option of velvet or braid,
depending on her comfort level.
Again my thanks!
Althea
On Jan 7, 2006, at 11:30 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:
--- Althea Turner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello,
I've been asked to help with this costume.
1544
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html
I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a
couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.
I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon
appliqued on. I understand the chemise. But I don't really
understand the wrap and head covering. Does anyone have an idea of
what/ how it's made? thanks!
Althea Turner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Althea,
This isn't really an area that I'm very familiar with, so I'm going
on what I can see in the portrait.
As far as your base fabric goes, wool or silk sounds fine. But as
far as the pattern on the fabric goes, I think that you're wrong
about velvet ribbon. I agree that the pattern is most likely
appliqued, but I don't think it's ribbon - I think that it's cord.
Do you have, or can you look at a copy of 'Historical Costume in
Detail - the 17th & 18th Centuries' by Avril hart and Susan North?
( Yes, I know the painting is dated 1544 - bear with me :-) ) If
you enlarge the portrait ( click on it and go to 100%, any larger
and strangely it seems to lose definition ) and look at the edge of
the Laura's right sleeve at the shoulder, you can see the profile
of the cord above the fabric. I think that I can even make out a
twist in the cord, too. Anyway, there are a pair of sleeves, made
of green silk, featured in the book, which are decorated/patterned
with cord which has been couched on. ( Description on p.28, picture
on p.29. There is an even larger picture over pp.10 & 11. ) When !
I first looked at this portrait closely, this form of decoration
and these sleeves leapt straight to my mind.
As far as the partlet-collar-shawl-thingy goes, my first thought
was that it looked like chenille! e.g.
http://www.cocochenille.com/2brdichbe.html
http://www.home-decorating-co.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?
Screen=PROD&Store_Code=THDC&Product_Code=arabo_toffee_649720&Product_C
ount=&Category_Code=
http://www.minkydelight.com/chwr-110.html
http://www.fabric.com/home-decor-fabric-upholstery-fabric-chenille-
upholstery-fabric-chenille-fabric-br-diamonds-taupe.aspx
Most of these designs are probably too big, but you get the idea.
On closer inspection, I have no idea, really, but I think you could
probably make a good approximation of the design with this technique:
http://www.quiltbus.com/chenilling.htm
Or use something like Rya stitch.
The headgear is odd, but it certainly looks as if it is the same
fabric as the partlet-thingy. Perhaps it is a close-fitting cap or
coif, rather than a wrap or headband? Sitting over braids wrapped
around the head, which give it that bulgy/padded look? If you made
the cap of your base fabric and then added the 'rosettes' to it
after you had the shape right...... no, I went back and looked at
the picture again, whatever the fabric is, it was woven that way -
you can see the partial rosettes on the edge of the partlet and on
the front of the headgear, just above Laura's right ear. Well,
that's how the original is, but you'll probably have to reproduce
the fabric by some kind of embroidery, so my first suggestion is
still valid, I guess.
Whatever you decide, good luck with your project. Post some
pictures when it's done, please?
My 2 cents worth.
Joannah
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Althea Turner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the
reasons behind things."
William of Conches, 12th century
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