[h-cost] paned sleeves for Elizabethan - question

[A & J Garden]

I've just cut out my paned sleeves and am planning to put a large gold 
bead at each join - but am wondering what is normally done with the 
underarm seam - do people join this seam or pane it as well? And if 
paned, do you sew a bed to match the rest of the sleeve or leave just 
plain? The dress is a ballgown - so people will see under the arm.
I make Irish dance costumes - so know that beads under arms can tear 
fabric of the dress - so am naturally very cautious.
Many thanks, Aylwen Garden
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