i found a small photo of the "riding outfit" that i liked, and also a
sketch of the design, both on the bbc site.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/pressoffice/images/bank/programmes_tv/bbc1autumn_2005/300_virgin_queen.jpg
http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/virginqueen/images/440x245/costume_3.jpg

looks like a reddish-brown velvet doublet worn over a patterned-fabric
kirtle? it's hard to tell what the kirtle fabric is in the costume
photo, and in the sketch photo, the swatch is almost all cropped out. 
brocade maybe?

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