Sorry, I had sent this to the group owner "on accident". (Sheepish grin)
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 16th Century "Nationality" Dress Characteristics...long
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:04:34 -0700
From: WickedFrau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], TheRenaissanceTailor
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sorry for the cross posts all, but last week someone posted this picture
as part of another discussion and I was curious on your thoughts.
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg
<http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg> (Grab your copy now
folks while it is still up. In an attempt to find out more information
from the Kunsthistorisches Museum, I inadvertently drew the attention of
the PhotoMarburg staff to the its availability online, only to find out
that they don't own the rights to the painting....it may disappear soon)
This is also a painting by the same artist, Alonso Sanchez Coello.
http://www.saragrace.net/images/Misc/MahoiteredSleeves/SPoptimized.jpg
It appears in Modes and Manners by Max Von Boehn as a portrait of Mary
Stuart attributed to Federigo Zuccero. As it turns out, the painting is
no longer thought to be of Mary Queen of Scots. A pectoral cross that
had been overpainted onto the original painting was removed in a 1950s
cleaning. The keeper of the Chatsworth collection (where the painting
currently resides) was able to tell me that the painting had been
altered in order to sell it to a former owner as Mary Queen of Scots. It
is now simply called a "Spanish Princess." I ordered a color copy of the
same picture to use in my presentation at the Phoenix Art Museum, and
though I may not share it with you, I can tell you that the outer gown
is deep red and appears to be a velvet, and that the underskirt appears
to be a gold damask. The partlet and sleeves match and appear to be
raised work or even "lacy" like. There is incredible three dimensional
work here.
What struck me was the similarity in the sitters and I began to wonder
if this might not be another picture of, either Isabella of Valois, or
perhaps her sister, (Marguerite de Valois (May 14, 1553 – May 27, 1615)
or even perhaps one of her daughters, ( Isabella Clara Eugenia December
8, 1566; – December 12,1633; and Catherina Michaella (October 10, 1567 –
November 6, 1597).
I suppose the skirt could be classified as "Spanish" due to its conical
shape, the headpiece French? I have seen it referred to as an Escoffion
or even as a French hood (neither of which strike me as being
appropriate). Anyone know of anything conclusive that shows where the
mahoitered sleeve originated? I have seen several in German dress.....
Since the proposed sitters were of Italian descent, living in France and
in the case of Isabella ending up in Spain, (and now the dang picture is
in England) and we all know by now that the people were liberally
wearing costumes from other countries, what makes this costume either
French, Spanish, English, or Italian in your minds? (What strikes you as
influences from each of those countries).
I am in the processs of hunting down the history of the picture's
ownership in hopes of discovering who the sitter is. This picture came
to Chatsworth in approximately 1760 and I have traced the ownership back
to someone living between 1566 and 1643. Does anyone know the habits of
painting collectors at this time? Would they only have purchase
paintings they thought to have been their relatives, or would they
collect paintings of any famous personage?
Whew, thanks for taking the time to read all this....looking forward to
hearing your opinions.
Sg
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