>I perhaps didnt realise wich part of the suit you have read that fine >drawing should be used. >Is it for the slash you make at the top of the back vent opening, to make an >extra pleat?
I'm not sure either. All it says is "the back". Rather vague. >Then she perhaps is meaning that this seam should be very >accurately made with tiny stitches, to hold well, as there only is very >little seam allowance here. Waugh is quoting, sometimes paraphrasing, a mid-18th c tailor's manual. Fine drawing doesnt appear to be small stitches or reinforcement. Waugh/Garsault usually says buckram and or interlining if that's what she/he means. it may well be worth the original questioner's time to find Garsault's book. Perhaps he defines the term. Lalah's comment on ever so slight gather stitches may make sense at this slash area. I didnt use gathers as the tops of the pleats are supposed to lie very flat. The slash (hidden by folding pleats to the inside where it becomes the tiniest of holes) is concealed by a fancy button. I have a different crazy idea: suppose Waugh is talking about the center back seam, not the skirt vent. If you backstitches the seam by hand and pressed it open, the the CB, which takes alot of stress, would only be held by 1 line of stitches. It would be weak. If she means, press the CB seam to the right, then blind stitch or catch stitch the 3 layers (garment & 2 seam allowances) then there is an element of reinforcement. Seems like it would make the seam oddly stiff. This is not my favorite interpretation of the p88 paragraph. I chose to make the interlining strong and capable of taking all the stress of wearing. >... For my gustavian suit, wich has this slash and >extra pleat, i whipstitched the parts together, with very fine stitches. It >perhaps is one of the most difficult places on a coat to make......... Very very true! I covered the slashed edges with the teensiest band of silk organza to contain those stray silk satin fibres of the garment fabric. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
