The "dry cleaning" instructions have as much to do with the dyes as anything
(at least according to an old friend who runs one of his family's cleaning
businesses).  So you may have a normally washable fiber, but one colored
with a dye that will turn fugitive with repeated washings.
I treat my silks/linens/wools similar to the way that Robin does (in her
email), although I think I'm a little more apt to be meaner to my wools, and
have very little experience with finer silks.  Most knowledgeable people
that I've spoken to or learned from directly will say that pre-cutting
fabric treatments (washing, drying, etc.) should mimic the treatments you'll
give the finished garments.  And I'd think that your initial treatment of
your wool fabrics might vary a little depending on the weave structure and
what type of garment you're planning on making.  You may want to make a wool
gown, for instance, that is fulled, obscuring the weave and producing a
thicker, warmer fabric (easier with plain weaves, and "woolen" fabrics as
distinct from "worsted" fabrics).  You can then subject your wool to more
abuse to full it.
Or you may wish to keep your wool un-fulled, as with worsteds, which resist
fulling anyways.  For these, cool water or drycleaning would be best (and
yes, that part's personal knowledge! I ruined a very nice $35/yd wool SCA
cloak by washing it *after* I'd made it...what's left might make a very
nice, very warm apron dress for a Norse outfit!)
One additional point....Watch the decorations you put on your garments.
Some stuff won't survive drycleaning (fake pearls being one example), so you
might end up hand-washing stuff, or spot-cleaning it (which works really
well if you're neat and tidy, and is pretty useless if you're a slob the way
I am--I get anything dirty! ;o)
If you choose to handwash items (either because of the fragility or other
characteristics of the fabric, or because you've added trims, beads, whatnot
that would not withstand regular cleaning or drycleaning), be careful that
you don't agitate or squeeze or otherwise rub your garment layers together.
Especially with garments made of wool.  This can cause small-scale fulling
and felting, which you might not want!  (Of course, the opposite is also
true--it's quite possible to deliberately felt a woolen item by hand.  I've
done it in my kitchen sink to a knitted-and-felted 16th century flat cap.)
--Sue

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) question


> It has been my experience that much of the clothing bought today is
labeled
> 'dry clean only' because of the combination of fibers and materials that
are
> unknown and may not be washable to the same extent.  We have become such a
> wash/dry society and expect everything to be instantly wearable.


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