I was just going through some stacked-up e-mail -- I tend to catch up in
fits and spurts, so sometimes miss things. Plus I have dial-up, so
anything that requires lots of image-heavy downloads gets set aside till I
have *time*.

Anyway, Susan posted lots of picture links. I haven't looked at all of
them but of the ones I did see -- yes, as you indicated, lots of Flemish
15th-16th c. fantasy. I took so many pictures of these sorts of weird
dresses in Belgium! In addition to the fact that they're all on
religious/historic/symbolic figures, it's also useful to note that you
rarely find two that are anywhere near alike, which makes it even more
obvious that these aren't meant to represent fashionable wear! The
"regular" clothing (on portraits, and in genre scenes) tends to be
cast-of-a-mold with relatively small differences in features.

Rule of thumb: The rarer it is, the less likely to be real.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6.gif

> > I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots running
> > down the "seam".
> 
> I thought that they were buttons!

The white dots are almost certainly buttons. I have no idea why she's all
stripey, but from her headgear, I wouldn't lay bets that she's a real
person, so I'd withhold judgement on this one without knowong the context.
Of course, if she's Italian, there's no telling.

Another rule of thumb: It's a bad idea to try to reproduce a costume from
an artwork without knowing something about the artwork.

> Virgin with Saints (Barbara & Catherine of Alexandria)
> http://www.wga.hu/art/b/benson/lou_135.jpg

Not too weird, these. Catherine's outfit pays lip service to the
by-now-required surcote but still is an attempt to make her look within
range of the accepted fashion. The Barbara is quite passable but very rich
as befits the princess she is; the fur oversleeves might be over the top.
Headdress is all symbolic on both.

> and one of my personal favorites -- dig the pink "3 piece suit" on the
> saint in the right panel
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/2/05adorat.jpg

I think that's meant to be a dress that's hitched up at the waist/hip and
bloused over. Still dripping with fantasy/foreign elements.

> Elijah & the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
> http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg

I think she's pretty realistic. I've seen those sleeves elsewhere. I think
I saw this one in person, or one much like it, and took pictures -- not
for the sleeve, but for the fitting at the back waist. IIRC, there's a
horizontal seam at the top of the pleats, but it sort of comes out of
nowhere -- it doesn't go beyond the pleated area. I would have to find the
slides to confirm that, though. This is not the only gown I saw that on;
it's some sort of technique for fitting over the rump. I can think of two
or three ways to do it.

> again symbolic/allegrical, but you got 4 "normal" gowns and that odd
> thing in the lower left
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/flemish_CharlesBold.jpg

None of these women are "normal," though the one at the lower right looks
realistic.  The one on the throne is a rather straighforward queenly image
plus a sword -- I think she's Justice. Oh yes, there it is above her head,
the first word in the inscription.

As for the four women upholding the coat-of-arms: See those words written
on their skirts? Those are labels, so you know what characteristic or
attribute they stand for. They are too dark to read as-is, but playing
around in a photo editor, I think the upper left one might be "Veritas,"
and the lower left is sage-something. The lower right one is clear:
Sobrietas, or Sobriety. Now we know why she has no fantastical elements to
her dress!

--Robin

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
[email protected]
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Reply via email to