On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I have a GFD but want to put another layer on over top.
> 
> Would it be appropriate to have something like a semi-fitted T-tunic
> dress over it? I am looking for something knee-length or longer with
> 'flowy' mid forearm length sleeves.
> 
> Is there anything appropriate that I can make? I want to stay more in
> the same time period to the form-fitted GFD.

The Gothic fitted dress existed in some from from roughly 1350 to 1450,
and there are a variety of overdresses to choose from in that period. To
my knowledge they are all full-length, so I wouldn't suggest going
shorter.

The body could be fitted (like the underdress), seen throughout this
period (though details of the fitted silhouette change). It might be
rather looser, as a basic gown -- rather like you describe above; this is
not often seen in art, but it does show up in the 1380s or so, in English
brasses.  By the end of the 1300s that loose gown had morphed into the
houppelande, which is very very full in the body (flaring from a closer
fit at the shoulder).

Sleeves range as well, usually tight with the tight bodies, and wide or
bagged with the houppelandes, but sometimes done otherwise. The rare
instances when you see the loose mid-width gown, it often has semi-wide
sleeves that look rather like a modern blazer's in width and length, with
the cuffs of the long underdress sleeves showing at the wrists. So yes, if
you hunt, you can find some examples of a semi-fitted tunic-style gown
with sleeves that come just a bit short of the wrist.  But it's rare. One
example I'm looking at is the brass of Marion Grevel, c. 1386, in Margaret
Scott's _Visual History of Costume: The 14th and 15th centuries_. This one
already has the high collar of the houppelande, and really looks like an
early houppelande.

I suspect you can find more examples of these mid-sized bodies and looser
sleeves on middle-class rather than upper-class women. I don't have time
to go hunting for you right now, but I would suggest you look at the
health handbooks (Tacuinum Sanitatus); these are Lombardic with French
influence. You might have a shot of finding "flowy" sleeves there too.

--Robin


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