I overlooked this in my original response, and I am not exactly sure
which items you mean, but... When researching my late Elizabethan, and
trying to make a decieison on how to attach the skirt, I found that
there were some gowns which had "highly regulated" pleated attachment,
(with the pleats arranged very neatly, and consicely)
(*http://tinyurl.com/hcceb)*, and others where the skirt appeared to
simply be gathered, or arranged in varying sized pleats (though usually
symetrically arranged), with the pinning done almost "free form."
(*http://tinyurl.com/hqvss )* This was a surprise to me when I really
started looking hard at them. In my mind, the "icon" had been only
those with highly regulated pleating.
And depending on what you mean by "French Farthingale gowns" for
yardage, there are examples of statuary with prettty small skirts (I
mean if you compared the diameters of the "circles.") On some, with a
woman's arm next to them, their fingers would just reach the end of the
skirt top, if they had their elbows right at their sides. There are
others, where if you compare the skirt top to the brim of hat, they only
appear to be ~ six inches wide or so. As I recall we used 11 yards of
fabric for the inner gown (there were a total 44 in the entire
ensemble), At least-3 went into the bodice and sleeves, but that was a
pretty big dang skirt. *http://tinyurl.com/me7tq*
I also had thought the drum farthingale was alway symetrically round.
Clearly this is not the case, though there is one gown on her site
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Siobhan.html (and her book) where the
flat side of the farthingale apears to be in back which I have never
seen in portraiture....but then it wouldn't surprise me if they did
that. They had to get to the flat panier style of the late 1700's some
how and it makes sense to me that the transition started by just
whacking off the front and backs of the cartwheel farthingales, because
they wanted to put their arms down, or be able to sit in a chair with a
back on it!
Sg
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Some other problems...like I mentioned, the French Farthingale gowns look
skimpy in the skirts....and on top of that the whole ensembles look unruly.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
[email protected]
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
