On Tue, 18 Apr 2006, Marie Stewart wrote:

> There are two main ways to make lace...  start with cloth and put
> holes into it to form the lace (punti tagliati, hedebo work, cut work,
> embroidered lace) and the other way is to form lace from string by
> forming a repetitive pattern that becomes the body of the work (bobbin
> lace, tatting, knitted, knotwork)
> 
> All can create lace... cloth with a pattern of holes in it.  Woven
> techniques are <i>perhaps</i> the oldest.  So can you give a little
> more information of what you are looking for...  I'll dig through the
> library.

No library digging needed for this one, I think; I suspect you can give me
enough for my purposes off the top of your head!

Here's the situation: I'm editing an article that refers to depictions of
the Virgin in 14th and 15th century European paintings as showing clothes
decorated with such rich ornamentations as "ermine, jewels, and pure gold
lace." I'm quite familiar with the paintings of this period, and I've
never seen anything in them that could reliably be called "gold lace," so
I suspect that the author (not being a costume person) is misapplying a
modern term to another type of decoration. She probably just means trim
borders or embroidery, but I can't put words into her mouth. In asking her
exactly what it is she's trying to call attention to, I need to explain
that the wording she's used won't work, because lace (as readers would
interpret the term) wasn't used yet. I'd like to be on firm ground when I
say that, and it would help if I could say that "what is commonly thought
of as lace trim on clothing doesn't appear until X period; I suspect
you're describing something else."

So, I don't need a specific date for the technique, just a ballpark
half-century or quarter-century in which something visibly recognizable as
"lace" became commonly used as clothing decoration. I know I see
recognizable lace all over Elizabethan art, and I don't see it in 14th
century art. But I don't have a sense for when exactly it starts cropping
up as a typical feature in depictions of clothing.

--Robin



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