Oooooh, if you click on the second pic listed here, it does an extreme
close-up. I notice that her partlet is tied with one tie, threaded through
double holes on each side. My current has 2 ties and they get tangled. I
love this list.
Sharon :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bella
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 8:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: Center strip on Eleonora's gowns (WasRE: [h-cost]
TudorTailor....a review)


monica spence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  >>>>><snipped>The dresses worn by Eleonora in her Bronzino portraits
usually don't have that center strip down the CF. You can surmise that is
there from the pictures where she wears a zimarra (surcoat). Where you do
see the strip come from the hands of copyists, or students of Bronzino or
from his workshop-- not from the master himself.<<<<
   
   
   
  I believe this one is stated to be by the master himself...
   
  http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?45823+0+0
   
  Just thinking out loud here -  perhaps the centre-front strip owes its
existance more to a then current fashion (1550s-1560s I mean) for decorating
bodices of plain fabric (as opposed to figured fabric), than to a
copyist/school of Bronzino. 
   
  There are very few images of Eleonora. Of those of her in a non-figured
fabric, the above image (1560s, by Bronzino himself) shows a centre-front
strip of embroidery, and only one of her (the pink one by Bronzino) which
does not show it is dated from the 1540s...
  http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Immagine:Angelo_Bronzino_040.jpg
   
  So perhaps it is rather the date of the portrait which explains why "the
dresses worn by Eleonora in her Bronzino portraits usually don't have that
center strip down the CF".
   
  As for evidence from the 1550s-1560s centre-front strip of
embroidery/embellishment, I can only think of one earlier image (from
Bergamo rather than Florence) of the 1550s that features a centre-front
strip, albeit in a fan-shaped rather than T-shaped bodice embellishment....
   
 
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/IsottaBrembatiGrumelli.jpg
   
  I'm sure there must be others out there.
   
  As to the extant item posted earlier (the one laid out flat post
conservation), it is, as I understand it, the very same one Janet Arnold
examined and discussed in Patterns of Fashion, which was indeed the burial
garment of Eleonora de Toledo. It too has a centre-front strip of
embroidery.
   
   
   
  Bella




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