Kim, a little late on this, but I would suggest that you think of the bodice to be slightly one third of the costume in length. As I have said, it should be a little to the top of your waistline. I am working on a dress for a plus sized woman right now. Her waist measure is probably 50" So, for this, I will use 3 1/2 panels 45" for the skirt. this will allow fullness without being voluminous. I was watching "The Heiress" last eve (Olivia Haviland) and was struck by the grace the women's costumes provided for a glimpse of the mid 19thC. And the hair styles did Not nod to the time period of the production.
A pagoda sleeve with gauze or fine linen undersleeve would be a nice choice (Especially if your upper arms are at all heavy) The trick is to make the sleeve big enough to cover without wrinkles at the armpit but remember that the re should be no gathers at the shoulder. I have found the PastPattern bodices to be Avery good choice for style. It will go nicely with any round skirt. Taking a hint from central European models, I set the panels on a split waist band which will allow you two pocket slits, one on either side. The actual pockets can be on your petticoat or on a twill band, much as they were in the late 18thC. The buttonholes go on the ends of the front and the back band should be about 2' longer. You will finish them with 2 sets of plain buttons either end. this also helps with larger/smaller fluctuations of weight . Kathleen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimiko Small" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:51 AM Subject: [h-cost] Victorian proportions for plus sizes (was yardage required) > At 12:26 PM 4/18/2006, you wrote: > >In making Plus Size gowns, > > etc. for customers, it is sometimes a little dicey getting the right > >proportion for the period. > > > Hi Kathleen, > > As a plus sized woman who later this summer will, I promise, *will* make a > Victorian outfit for our County Sesquicentennial (I think I have that > right... 150 year anniversary), any suggestions or tips on getting that > right proportion? > > Kimiko > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
