Sounds like what I did in college. We started with a basic form fitting pattern, then cut, spread, added, etc. to get the final pattern we wanted. Does this sound like what you're looking for? Sharon
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of michaela Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 4:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] book on drafting h-costumes << I've read the books from Janet Arnold or Noran Waugh or others, they are a good help, but not what I'm looking for. The thing that interests me is exactly how to draft the pattern with the help of a certain drafting "system" (I don't know how to call it). You make a net with the help of the measurements and out of it you make the pattern. It is usual that you make a "basic" pattern and then modify it to the pattern you want by for ex. relocating the seams, increasing or decreasing their widths etc. >> It sounds like you want to get into flat pattern drafting rather than draping or copying a previous pattern. I found several in a large library here, most were from the 1960s and they took you through what measurements to take and how to create a basic body block (usually with darts) that can be altered to have seams or darts where you want. I don't know the titles, but they are under dress making, patterning in the Dewey Decimal system: 646.4 Locally these turn up: Dressmaking Pattern Design Ann Ladbury's Guide To Simple Pattern Cutting Ladbury, Ann. London : B.T. Batsford, 1986. 120 p. : ill. ; 26 cm. The Art Of Pattern Drafting. Stringer, Pamela C. Auckland : Ramlex Services Ltd., 1988. 182 p. : ill. ; 30 cm. Creating Fashion Foster, Betty London : Thames : Macdonald, 1983 160p. : ill. ; 27cm Customize Your Sewing Patterns For A Perfect Fit Morris, Mary, 1940- New York, N.Y. : Lark Books, c2001. 144 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm. The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making All Kinds Of Trousers, Breeches & Knickers : To Which Is Added Chapters Dealing With The Cutting And Making Of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters, Etc. Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926. London : John Williamson, [19--?] 1 v. (various pagings) : ill. ; 28 cm. The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making Of All Kinds Of Overcoats : Civilain, Military, Naval, Livery &c. Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926. London : J. Williamson Co., [19--?] 1 v. (various pagings) : ill. ; 28 cm. The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making Of All Kinds Of Trousers, Breeches & Knickers, To Which Is Added Chapters Dealing With The Cutting And Making Of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters, &c. Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926. London : J. Williamson Co., [19--?] 104 p. : ill. ; 29 cm. Designing Patterns : A Fresh Approach To Pattern Cutting Campbell, Hilary Melbourne : Australasian Educa Press, 1985 123p. : ill. ; 32cm Dress Pattern Designing : The Basic Principles Of Cut And Fit Bray, Natalie London : Granada, 1981 132p. : ill. ; 28cm Dress Pattern Designing : The Basic Principles Of Cut And Fit Bray, Natalie London : Collins, 1986 176p. : ill. ; 29cm Every Sewer's Guide To The Perfect Fit : Customizing Your Patterns For A Sensational Look Morris, Mary, 1940- Asheville, NC : Lark Books, c1997. 144 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm. Fashion Design On The Stand Cloake, Dawn. London : Batsford, 1996. 96 p. : col. ill. ; 30 cm. These do not however create an historical shape, especially pre-hourglass shapes of the 19thC where you have a body form so markedly different from the modern. I would recommend them though as a starting point to creating your own patterns because they do guide you through measuring and many basic techniques of construction, and you could then use that understanding to cretae flat patterns for fitting over various historical forms. The other option is to get out Period Costume for Stage and Screen by Jean Hunnisett. It's probably the closest to what you want. Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 7/06/2006 _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
