At 21:46 08/08/2006, you wrote:
Make up a fitting corset out of inexpensive but heavy & non-stretch
fabric. (You may want to mine the $1/yd table at walmart, or your
local equivalent.) For fitting purposes, you only need one bone per
side at the front, side, and back; front-side and back-side bones
can be added to combat wrinkles on larger figures. Since the fit of
the busk pocket at front and the lacing strips in the rear won't
change, go ahead and make those with your real corset fabric, and
baste them to the fitting corset. Then, each element of the fitting
corset will be useful for the real corset: the fitting corset itself
will become the pattern, and the busk and laces sections will go
into the real corset. If you make corsets often, you may want to
make and save a re-useable busk and laces set.
Sew the fitting corset by machine; use a long stitch length, and a
tension loose enough that it will be relatively easy to pick out the
stitches, but use a strong thread (such as hand quilting
thread). To simulate the fit of a garment with finished seams, clip
all seam allowances at the curves, then push the seam allowances to
one side and topstitch. This sort of construction won't be up to
long term use, but it will definitely be enough for the fitting process.
While you have the fitting corset on, you might want to take the
opportunity to mark where the bones should go. (Only do this after
you are satisfied with the fit of the corset!) Even with the few
bones you've put into the fitting corset, you'll probably find that
they're not in quite the right spot; you can tell this if it feels
like the bones twist slightly, rather than laying flat along your
body. This is especially problematic with the side-front bones of a
straight-front! To mark where the bones should go, get a roll of
tape about 3/4" to 1" wide. The wideness of the tape helps avoid
errors; if you can get something that wide to lay flat, then the
much narrower bone channels certainly will. Cut a piece of tape
long enough for a bone channel, and while wearing the corset, lay it
where you think the bone channel should be. I find it helps to
affix the tape first at the waist, then smooth it up and down; it
gives you the best control of where the channel will wind up.
Good Lord, how complicated!! I make up a corset, in the fabric I
intend to use, from a customer's measurements, seam the centre front
instead of using a busk, but eyelet the back in the normal way. I fit
with the seams on the outside, with plenty of seam allowance. But
then I have been doing it for 25 years.
Suzi
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