Hi,
I looked in my book, and i could not find the buttonholes either. However i
think they might have made the buttonholes vertical in this waistcoat, if
you look at the pattern, it is made of a silver cord in the edge and a
little further in, there is a silver lace running along the line. Perhaps
they made the buttonholes between the cord and the lace.
This is one of the examples i have ben spekulating a lot about. In such
embroideries, it would really spoil to cut out splits for buttonholes. Cut
over all the metal threads, it would unravel itself very soon. Perhaps they
made small loops in the edge - bars to catch the buttons.
But back to the method with the embroidery. Most of these waistcoats i have
seen, the buttonholes are worked on the embroidery, so that it sits
corresponding to the embroidery on the other side, and yes, some of the
embroidery is hided, when the other side overlaps, but thats what they did.
Tells a lot about the time, in my opinnion, about the extravagance taking
place.
I also have found out that they didnt wear jacket and waistcoat, wich did
not have the same embroidery, wich is a big mistake of mine, i thoaght so,
and therefore figured i could varie my outfits a lot, but no!
Therefore i have made myself a rule, no more embroidered jackets, when the
one i am making is finished, ill make plain jackets. Then you can use and
choose different waistcoats, even they are embroidered. This is information
i got recently from a book i found second hand, about Costumes and Fashion
Clothes from the royal danish opera. The opera started in 1748 and for some
plays, they still have the costumes, wich were second hand clothes given to
the theater, mostly by the nobility. They could only wear their court suits
a few times, then they had to replace them with new ones, and therefore they
gave them to the theater. So i got myself some more mens cut to choose from,
the book has about 5 suits, also a roquelaire.And pattern cuts. It also has
the cut of a Henry VIII jacket, very nice.
Bjarne
--- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 3:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery on CF of waistcoats
Remember when we were looking at the costumes from "Jefferson in Paris"
and
Bjarne asked about the embroidery down the front? It met CF and the
buttons
were slightly off CF instead of the embroidery pattern overlapping where
the
side with the buttons goes under the buttonholes....as is the case with
most
18th century waistcoats.
Well on page 65 of the book 18th Century Embroidery Techniques by Gail
Marsh, there is a waistcoat at Gawthorpe Hall in Lancashire, UK from
1750-1770
where the metal embroidery..."rapport embroidery"...a style where the
embroidery
is worked up 1st and then applied to the cream satin waistcoat... this
embroidery meets edge to edge and the button are off center. The book says
"It
fastens with 12 buttons and corresponding buttonholes." but I'll be damned
if I
can even se a piece of a buttonhole! They could be under the buttons. But
it
looks like there are no buttonholes at all. Furthermore, the way the
waistcoat is displayed [laying on an orange table surface] the symmetrical
embroidery
is slightly askew. Is it buttoned up or just laid edge to edge.
I went to the Gawthorpe Hall web site but couldn't find a picture of it.
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