Yikes, what is overhanding? I am not familiar with that term, can you explain it a little more? I am trying to imagine cartridge pleating which are overlapped to reduce bulk...
Organ pipes and cartridge pleats are definitely not the same thing. I don't have access to the Oxford online dictionary anymore, but my memory is that Michaela is correct...it shows up in the 19th century. Furthermore, I've not been able to find any specific word for it in German either. >Organ pleats, in my opinion, taper towards the top in the same way as an organ >pipe does.< As often as I have contemplated these things, and made them up, it was only when I looked at those military bases in August that the picture became clear as to why they were called this. When people spoke of them tapering, I always was focused on the "fact" that they were wider at the hem then where they were attached. I think I might have said this in my write up, but organ pipes are often sliced on the diagonal at the top (which is what I think Suzi is referring to.). When they are viewed from the un-sliced side, there is a point at the top which tapers down in an oval shape. This is very much what they look like. There are some who say they aren't any different then rolled pleats. While rolled pleats look a lot like the organ pipe pleats along their length, they are blunted off in the attachment area. They look squared off or rounded (I am not talking about contemporary portraits here, I am talking about garments I've made up.) Those pictures where the organ pipe pleats have alternating colors are an indication that they are made in sectioned tapers. Otherwise they are cut on a circle - you'd have to have a mighty big piece of fabric to do rolled pleats on a circle. I'd say the same for cartridge pleats. Generally the latter two lend themselves towards long lengths of straight fabric. I wonder if we could date the term to when organ pipes were made like this. BTW, anyone know why an organ is called an organ?? I know it is a musical instrument with air supplied by a bellows of sorts, but why wasn't a flute called an organ... Anyone know why the ends are tapered? I figure it has to do with the sound mechanics...but aren't there all sorts of pipe instruments where the outlet is flat? Sg Of course I keep threatening to write a paper on them, but haven't gotten around to it for four years. I know it ain't happening in the next 6 months either. _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
