This is not my time frame either... I guess by the end of putting this book
online, I will be more familiar. There is always room in my brain to learn
more. One of the most important things to know about the WW1 era, is that
this was when the dress hemlines rose above the ankles. Something the 1920s
is credited for. IMO, the WW1-1923 is one of the most creative eras in
design history.
Some of the designers in the 1916 book, I recognize from the pre-war and
1920s, like Beer, Jenny, House of Worth, Martial et Armand, Paquin, Drecoll,
and Agnes. There are some designers that I don't know their background like
Bernard, Bulloz, and Georgette. One designer is really bothering me named
Klein... no first name was provided in the book. I have three Kleins listed
in my fashion designer books. There are Anne, Calvin, and Bernat. None of
them were born before 1921. So this Klein in 1916 can't be them.
Any day, I am supposed to be receiving my latest edition of Survey of
Historic Costume textbook. It lists fashion designers by decades. I hope
some of these designers are in the book.
I know a lot of these fashion designers are in my L'Art de la Mode magazines
from this time frame, but the articles are written in French. I can type in
French but have no idea what it means. There are small descriptions in
English and French translations under most of the L'Art. images. I want to
take some college French courses at the local community college. It doesn't
look good for me to take classes at the university with my students.
There are thumbnails from this 1916 book my Library Updates page:
http://www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm . There are 18 of 50
illustrations in the Library today. I am sorry for the very small
thumbnails with the larger watermark on the updates page. We have to put
the large watermarks on the public access pages to discourage journal
websites from linking to them. Google crawls the updates page daily, so I
have to be careful with the images on this webpage. Larger images are
shown in my Costume Encyclopedia, www.costumeencyclopedia.com . You can use
the Encyclopedia for free. Do a search with the keyword "designer" in the
Costume field/line. Today, there are 168 entries and images for designers
from 1890s-1920s in the Encyclopedia. The ones shown for 1910s /1916 are
the ones from this book. When you click on the "DETAILS" link you will see
the medium size images. The images in the database are harder to link to,
so I can put larger images.
I have photographed a few dresses from the WW1 era. But they do not look
like these illustrations. These 1916 dresses look like more what you would
wear in the 1980s. I have found a lot of the women's designs during the
entire the WW1 era look very much like the 1980s/early 1990s. I have a
Delineator magazine from 1918, that shows a jumpsuit like I wore during the
1980s. The dresses in the 1916 book reminds me of the dresses the girls
wore on The Cosby Show. The second dress by Agnes on the Updates page:
first row, second image from the left... the hat looks just like the ones I
have photographed from the VCU collection from the 1930s/40s. I do know
because of the War, a lot of designers had to shelf their designs and then
pull them back out after the War. So you will see a lot of leftovers
designs in the 1919-1923 time frame.
From the fashion industry point-of-view, I do know how the industry had to
make a lot of adjustments. I collect fashion industry publications for the
19th and 20th Centuries. I am interested on how to textile products got to
the consumers. I have a few of the articles in the Library of a 1918 trade
publication National Association of Retail Clothiers,
http://www.costumegallery.com/1918/ . These discuss the lifting of the
textile restrictions and the schedule of the release of goods.
Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com
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