I believe that Swiss belts in the mid-19th century were the ones that were 
wider in the front, often with a point at center front and frequently had a 
laced effect there mimicking the lacing on a bodice.
Which portrait are you referring to for Queen E? The portrait I know as the 
Darnley Portrait is the one in gold and cream with the 'Polish' frog closures 
up the front of the doublet-bodice and no sign of hanging sleeves at all. Are 
you thinking of one of the Armada portraits?
 
Karen
Seamstrix


-- "LLOYD MITCHELL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Two questions:
Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses.  Any clue as 
to what these looked like?


I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 
14" doll.  At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat
be set to give a cape effect.  On closer examenation, I see that this is 
actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett.  I 
have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with  the set. In 
order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the 
ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve 
outside in.  This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric.

Has anyone else attempted this dress "for real"? I have turned the backside 
of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the 
painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is 
still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any 
explanation of how this was done.

Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to 
capture the total dazzle of the gown?

Kathleen 

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