I'm familiar with the common resources on the standard 16th century 
surcoat/loose gown  constructions and this isn't quite like that.  It could 
even be called a Schaube - note that it has it's own sleeves, not the very 
common large draping ones.

Algacea has a mourning gown that is similar in that it has a full back like 
this -it looks very much like a sack dress when made up, -it laces up under 
the 'sack' but has a full false front.

It may even be less of a construction as a "treatment" discussion.

I am trying to avoid giving any of my opinions on how it was made because I 
didn't want to influence any free thoughts.

I've not seen very many other paintings where the sitter is actually 
standing such that you can see the way the gown drapes in back.  If anyone 
has seen any paintings where the backs of such a gown can be seen - I'd sure 
like to see them.

There are many pictures in this period of a black over gown which fits 
tightly all the way around.

Thank you for your thougts.

Sg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Construction Thoughts on Surcoat/Outergown?


> There's two versions of an overgown/surcoat in one of Janet Arnold's
> books. Margo's Historic Patterns offers a "comfort gown" pattern. Mantua
> Maker has a "Spanish loose gown". Reconstructing History offers both a
> "loose gown" and a "kirtle& gown" pattern. And I'm pretty sure Alcega
> had more than one version. Any of those should give you an idea of cut
> and construction.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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