Not being familiar with this era, would it be correct to leave a slit at the
bottom sides,(for ease of walking), if not enough fabric was available for
the gores? What about an over gown, the sleeveless kind with overlarge
armholes? 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 3:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle


I think we're a similar size & height, so some of the layouts that I  
use might help:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore1.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore2.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore3.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore4.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore5.gif

Sorry for the poor image quality; my scanner just did not want to see  
the grid! These are basically to scale, give or take about an inch,  
but should not be scaled up exactly or used as patterns. The last is  
(obviously) not a 4-panel, but I threw it in anyway; it's a mid-late  
15thC it's-not-a-princess-seam gown.
(SL-sleeve, SLG=sleeve gore, BG=back gore, SG=side gore, FS=front  
gore; I assumed 30" fabric width for each. 60" garment length is  
conveniently top-of-the-shoes for me at ~5'10.")

All of these are based on draped patterns rather than commercial ones,  
but they all take under 4 yds of fabric.  When (as is usually the  
case) the gores have one on-grain edge and one bias edge, the on-grain  
edge should go towards the front.  Where not marked otherwise, the top  
edge is the fold edge.

I'm too lazy to hunt the diagrams up now, but when you have fabric  
twice your desired length or a tad more, you might want to try folding  
the fabric widthwise rather than lengthwise; you can get a lot more  
out of it that way.

-E "cut your cote to fit your cloth" House


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